Evidence

Vitamin A

Retinal is the number 1 “must have ingredient” in any skin care regime. “Rewinds the clock on skin aging” and results in increased skin elasticity and reduces wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. Also effective in managing acne.

Vitamin A has the most and strongest evidence for reducing the signs of skin aging¹. It has been shown to stimulate skin cell growth and collagen production². Retinal is the most effective and least irritating from of Vitamin A1 (Other commonly used forms of Vitamin A including Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate have weak or no evidence). It reduces the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation and increases skin elasticity and is also useful in managing acne³

⁽¹⁾ Rivers 2008, Babamiri 2009, Mukherjee 2006, Sorg 2006, Didierjean 1999, Boisnic 1999
⁽²⁾ Diridollou 1999, Creidi 1998, Fluhr 1999, Boisnic 1999
⁽³⁾ Dreno 2005, Dreno 2009, Tran 2005

Vitamin B3

Manages Acne, Rosacea and eczema, reduces pigmentation and improves skin barrier function

An Anti-Oxidant, assists in repair of cell DNA. Improves skin barrier function ⁽¹⁾ (decreases moisture loss), is helpful in the management of Acne ⁽²⁾, Rosacea ⁽³⁾ and Eczema ⁽⁴⁾. It is also manages the skin’s natural oil production ⁽⁵⁾ increases skin elasticity ⁽⁶⁾ and reduces pigmentation and skin yellowing ⁽⁷⁾. It also has evidence for reducing the risk of skin cancer ⁽⁸⁾.

⁽¹⁾ Ghering 2004, Crowther 2008, Christman 2012.
⁽²⁾ Walocko 2017, Fox 2012.
⁽³⁾ Draelos 2005, Chen 2014.
⁽⁴⁾ Yoshinao, Bains 2018.
⁽⁵⁾ Wohlrab 2012
⁽⁶⁾Bisset 2005, Kawada 2008.
⁽⁷⁾ Hakozaki 2002, Bisset 2004.
⁽⁸⁾ Chen 2014, Rolfe 2014.

Vitamin C

Protects and repairs damage from the sun – Reduces wrinkles, skin roughness, and pigmentation

An anti-oxidant, effective improving protection from and repair of sun induced premature aging¹. It reduces wrinkles², fine lines, skin roughness and pigmentation³. L-Ascorbic acid is naturally unstable and must be formulated in an oil base in order to delay oxidisation. Stabilised forms of Vitamin C are often used for convenience, however they have weak or no evidence⁴.

⁽¹⁾ Humbert 2003, Burke 2007, Aguilera 2012, Darr 1996, Lin 2003, Alexander 2012
⁽²⁾ Raschke 2004, Farris 2005
⁽³⁾ Xu 2012
⁽⁴⁾ Campos 2008, Tsai 2012

BETA HYDROXY ACID

Gently exfoliates the skin – is effective in managing acne and reducing the signs of sun induced aging

Being related to Aspirin, Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties and is generally well-tolerated ¹. It exfoliates the skin ² and has been shown to be effective in reducing acne ³, managing some of the signs of premature (sun-induced) skin aging ⁴ (especially hyperpigmentation) and psoriasis ⁵. Its effectiveness as an exfoliator as also been shown to be enhanced when formulated with Urea ⁶ which is a (humectant) moisturising agent.
⁽¹⁾ Arif 1015,
⁽²⁾ Kornhauser 2010,
⁽³⁾ Shalia 1981, Zheng 2013, Zheng 2019, Eady 1996
⁽⁴⁾ Fendrich 2004, Kligman 1998, Kornhauser 2010
⁽⁵⁾ Fluhr 2008, Jacobi 2015
⁽⁶⁾ Gabard 1989

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Exfoliates and smooths the skin

Improves skin texture and tone ⁽¹⁾ through exfoliation. Helps remove dead skin cells on the surface and promotes skin cell growth ⁽²⁾.

⁽¹⁾ Kornhauser 2010, Stiller 1996
⁽²⁾ Kim 1998, Newman 1996

Tyrosinase inhibitor

Reduces hyperpigmentation, for a lighter more even skin tone

Effectively targets hyperpigmentation and age spots. 4-n-butylresorcinol is a non-cytotoxic ⁽¹⁾ highly effective tyrosinase inbitor ⁽²⁾making it both effective ⁽³⁾, non-irritating ⁽⁴⁾ and safe for continuous long term use

⁽¹⁾ Okubo 1995
⁽²⁾ Kolbe 2012
⁽³⁾ Kim 2005, Shin 2014, Khemis 2007
⁽⁴⁾ Huh 2010, Shin 2014