The ESK blog

Best Moisturisers For Rosacea

08 September 2021

Dr Anne Thomson

Rosacea mainly affects skin rich in sebaceous glands - especially the central face, nose, chin, and forehead, especially of light-skinned women, aged 30–50 years. But it can happen to anyone.

ROSACEA SKIN IS DRY SKIN

Skin dryness and increased trans epidermal water loss are hallmarks of rosacea skin. In fact, in studies, skin dryness is the MOST common symptom of all! Studies have shown that the skin barrier in rosacea is severely impacted at multiple points making it a less effective.

An intact skin barrier is essential for maintaining homeostasis as it protects the body against external agents and microbes and provides a waterproof cover.

According to the literature, stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, and tight junctions are considered the most important components of the skin permeability barrier.

ROSACEA SKIN IS TOO ALKALINE!

Yes, you read that correctly. Rosacea prone skin has a higher pH than unaffected skin.

Researchers believe this contributes to greater skin dehydration.

It’s important when it comes to choosing a moisturiser.

WHAT MOISTURISING DOES

The basic function of a moisturiser is to hydrate the outer layers of the skin or stratum corneum.

They do this in a few ways.

The first is pure occlusion which stops trans epidermal water loss or TEWL via evaporation.

Examples of occlusives include such as petrolatum, mineral oil, silicone derivatives (eg dimethicone), lanolin, ceatyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol. Humectants work by attracting and holding water in the skin itself.

Examples include glycerin, propylene glycol and sodium lactate. Emollients make the skin feel and appear smooth.

They also help reduce TEWL.

Examples of emollients include glycerol stearate, lanolin, soy sterol and sunflower seed oil.

The American Academy of Dermatologists recommendation to rosacea patients: “Moisturising helps hydrate your skin by trapping water in your skin.

This can reduce irritation and make your skin feel more comfortable,” they say.

The Academy adds that having the right moisturiser can also improve the results obtained from other treatments.

WHAT’S IN A TYPICAL MOISTURISER?;

They actually have a bit of a formula.

The standard components in a standard facial moisturiser include approximately 80% water, 5% humectants, 4% emollients/occlusives 6% emulsifiers, 2% silicate, 0.3% thickener, 0.4% preservative, and 0.2% fragrance

HERE IS WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A MILD MOISTURISER;

Acidic-neutral pH: The evidence is still emerging, but it seems that between 4 and 5.5 is best
Without potential irritants and allergens

WHAT ARE THE POTENTIAL IRRITANTS AND ALLERGENS YOU SHOULD BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR?

Perfume!
AHAs such as lactic acid, which can cause stinging and irritation
Any steroid creams

ARE THERE ACTIVES THAT MIGHT HELP ROSACEA?

If you’re using a moisturiser anyway, why not add some actives that can help manage your rosacea?

1. Sunscreen

Avoiding the sun is essential to minimise inflammation to the skin and to avoid one of the key rosacea triggers.

Go for a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Preferably a physical rather than a chemical sunscreen. Look for zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

Like ESK’s Zinc Shade with Zinc Oxide!

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
Smooth application with minimal white cast
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

2. Niacinamide.

Few studies have specifically addressed TEWL in rosacea.

But those that have, found it is better than a plain moisturiser.

ESK’s B Quenched, B Calm and Repair + both have 5% niacinamide.

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

B Quenched

Meet B Quenched, a gentle hydrator designed for irritable skin. Powered by niacinamide and hemp seed oil, it helps support the appearance of a calm, hydrated skin barrier, while helping reduce visible redness. Free from scents, parabens, and sulphates, this pH-balanced formula locks in moisture and keeps irritants at bay. B Quenched leaves skin feeling soft, balanced, and refreshed, perfect for daily use.

Key Benefits

- Helps improve the appearance of hydration and softness

- Supports calm-looking, less inflamed skin

- Evidence-backed ingredients to maintain a resilient skin barrier

Repair +

Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture.

Key Features:

Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
Super effective but gentle enough for daily use

3. Retinal

There is some evidence that topical vitamin a can help reduce redness, pustules and the little telangiectasia blood vessels in rosacea skin.

Unlike retinol, retinal has been specifically studied for rosacea.

Being less irritating than prescription vitamin a but equally effective in studies for acne and skin aging, it’s a good choice in rosacea prone skin.

ESK’s Ultimate A has 0.06% Retinal and 4% Niacinamide.

Ultimate A

Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.

Key features: