The ESK blog
February 2026 Science Wrap Up
25 February 2026
Dr Ginni Mansberg
February has been such an exciting month over at ESK. We released the latest in our gold product series, Enlighten Gold. It’s the next level of pigmentation control. We have been working away on a clinic trial (our first one) which we conducted in the UK thanks to the support and leadership of our clinic partners. The results blew us away- even better than we expected! And like Ultimate A Gold, it has been so well tolerated. We are so excited for you to try it. In London, not only did we launch Enlighten Gold at the Bulgari hotel, I presented and hosted a panel discussion at 2 conferences- Menopause in Practice and Future Patient. They were absolutely terrific, and really lived up to the hype! With that, I read 3 great studies that I wanted to share!
Can skincare really make you happier? Europe’s top dermatology body says: slow down.
A new editorial in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology has issued a clear warning about a growing trend in cosmetic marketing: claims that skincare products can directly improve mood, reduce anxiety, boost mental health or even act on the brain. According to the EADV Psychodermatology Task Force, these claims are misleading and not supported by robust science!
Yes, the skin and nervous system are closely linked. Sure- stress can worsen skin disease, and improving the appearance of skin can enhance quality of life and confidence. But that’s very different from claiming a cream can alter brain chemistry or emotional states. The authors stress there is absolutely no evidence that skincare and cosmetics can act directly on the brain. If they did, they would no longer be cosmetics, but drugs, with all the risks that entails.
So, if you see an ad that claims to be for “happy creams,” keep scrolling.
Should you be trying exosomes?
Exosomes are tiny parcels released by cells that carry proteins, lipids and genetic material to other cells, acting like biological text messages. They tend to be harvested from stem cells including fat and even from a placenta. In theory, they can signal skin cells to make more collagen, calm inflammation, support healing and even influence pigmentation. No wonder they’re having a moment in aesthetic medicine.
A new review in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology looked at the evidence so far. They found 56 studies. Most of the positive data comes from lab studies, animal models and small human trials- mostly company sponsored. There’s a tiny bit of evidence for exosomes in a topical product (the evidence that they can get through the skin barrier unless it’s applied after needling or other procedures is zero). One study showed improving skin texture, redness and pigmentation over 4–6 weeks. Studies in this space on the whole are tiny and sponsored so nothing we can hang our hats on yet.
Injected exosomes are far more controversial. Concerns remain around standardisation, safety, source variability and long-term effects. Regulation globally is still evolving.
Having said all of that, exosomes are biologically fascinating and may have a future in dermatology, especially post-procedure and as an adjunct to other treatments- not as the star players! But if evidence is your thing- as it is ours- we’re not there yet!
Brown spot… but which one? New tech may help tell the difference
Not all pigmentation is created equal, and anyone who treats skin knows this matters. Solar lentigines (sun spots) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can look very similar, but they behave differently and respond to different treatments. A small but intriguing pilot study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science explored whether hyperspectral imaging (HSI) could help tell them apart more objectively.
Researchers scanned facial pigmentation in a group of Japanese women using HSI, a technology that analyses skin by breaking light into detailed colour and chromophore signatures. What they found was interesting: PIH spots had significantly higher haemoglobin levels and appeared “redder” on colour analysis compared with solar lentigines. In contrast, melanin levels were surprisingly similar in both types of pigmentation, which helps explain why they can look so alike to the naked eye.
Why does this matter? Because PIH is often more inflammatory and vascular, while solar lentigines are more about cumulative sun damage. With PIH you fix the underlying inflammatory skin condition and focus on barrier repair along with gentle tyrosinase inhibition and retinoids. With solar lentigines we often use a procedure to break up the pigment (like IPL or laser) and then focus on both tyrosinase inhibition and anti-aging strategies. If you have PIH, laser and BBL can potentially make the problem worse. So having a scanner that could accurately diagnose your pigmentation will definitely improve outcomes. Watch this space!
See you next month!
Meet your new secret weapon against uneven skin tone. Enlighten Gold is a lightweight moisturiser designed to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. We've blended high strength 4nB (a gentle, and highly effective pigmentation fighter) with PHAs (think of them as a soft exfoliant that plays nice with sensitive skin) and niacinamide to support your skin’s barrier to effectively improve your skin. Whether your skin is oily, dry, or somewhere in between, this pigmentation moisturiser fits right in. Why you'll love it: For best results, use Enlighten Gold in the morning and Ultimate A Gold at night (available together in our Golden Duo). This AM/PM approach targets pigmentation while supporting long-term skin change.
Enlighten Gold