The ESK blog
How is pigmentation different in skin of colour?
12 January 2026
Dr Ginni Mansberg
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Pigmentation can affect all skin types, but it behaves a little differently depending on how much natural pigment your skin has. Here’s what we know about pigmentation in skin of colour, why it’s more common, and how to manage it gently and effectively.
Pigmentation concerns are more common in skin of colour
Research consistently shows that pigmentation issues are more common in skin of colour than in lighter European skin.
South Asian populations, in particular, seek dermatology care for pigmentation more than any other group. In many Asian cultures, pigmentation problems like melasma are actually seen as a bigger sign of ageing than wrinkles.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is also much more common. This happens when the skin responds to inflammation (like acne, eczema, or even aggressive treatments) by producing excess pigment.
Why is skin of colour more prone to pigmentation?
There are a few key biological reasons.
1. More melanin and more active pigment cells
While all skin types have the same number of melanocytes, skin of colour has more active melanocytes (the pigment-producing cells) and a higher overall melanin content.
The enzyme tyrosinase, which drives pigment production, is more active. Melanosomes (the packets that carry pigment through the skin) are larger and break down more slowly.
Even the type of melanin is different. Skin of colour has more eumelanin (dark brown/grey pigment) compared to pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment).
Put all this together and it means pigmentation responses are stronger and longer-lasting after the same trigger.
2. A stronger inflammatory response
People with darker skin are more prone to inflammatory skin reactions. This includes:
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Higher levels of inflammatory markers like IL-6, TNF-α and CRP
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More inflammatory signalling within the skin itself
This is a big reason why PIH is so common after acne, rashes or irritation.
3. The “glue layer” is more fragile
The basement membrane, which acts like a glue between skin layers, is more easily damaged in skin of colour. When this happens, pigment can drop deeper into the skin, making pigmentation much harder to fade and sometimes persistent for months or years.
4. Better natural UV protection (with a catch)
Darker skin has built-in sun protection. Black skin provides the equivalent of an SPF of around 13.4.
That sounds great, but it comes with downsides. People with skin of colour often use sunscreen less, and doctors are less likely to recommend it. Add to that the fact that many sunscreens leave a white cast, and it’s easy to see why sun protection is underused.
Unfortunately, this means one of the most effective tools against pigmentation isn’t being used enough.
5. Less research, fewer tailored guidelines
Historically, most skin research has been done on white skin. But many guidelines don’t translate well to skin of colour.
Managing pigmentation in skin of colour
Treating pigmentation in skin of colour requires a gentler, smarter approach.
Some common treatments like hydroquinone, chemical peels and lasers can actually trigger more pigmentation through inflammation, especially in Fitzpatrick skin types IV–VI.
Here’s what works best.
An ounce of protection
Sun protection is non-negotiable. That means:
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Avoiding peak UV (10 am–2 pm)
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Seeking shade
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Wearing hats, sunglasses and protective clothing
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Applying sunscreen daily
We know this isn’t talked about enough.
A British Journal of Dermatology paper highlighted that ideal sunscreens for skin of colour should be:
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SPF 30 or higher
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Broad spectrum
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Non-greasy
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Leave no white cast
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Ideally contain anti-inflammatory or pigment-targeting ingredients like 4-n-butylresorcinol
Topicals before procedures
Harsh treatments like peels, dermabrasion and lasers can worsen pigmentation.
Even so-called “gentler” lasers still carry a risk of PIH, including non-ablative fractional, Q-switched and picosecond lasers.
That’s why procedures should be second-line, not first-line. Start with topical cosmeceutical skincare plus sunscreen.
Targeting tyrosinase safely
Blocking tyrosinase, the key enzyme in pigment production, is one of the safest and most effective ways to treat hyperpigmentation.
Hydroquinone was once the gold standard, but it comes with significant risks including irritation, hypersensitivity and rare permanent discoloration (ochronosis), particularly in darker skin. For this reason, it’s banned in cosmetic skincare in Australia, Europe and the US.
Why we prefer 4-n-butylresorcinol (4NB)
4-n-butylresorcinol is the most potent human tyrosinase inhibitor available.
Studies show strong depigmenting effects at very low concentrations, with 84% of people seeing significant improvement, even when used alone. It’s also well tolerated and suitable for long-term use and it has been successfully trialled in Korea and India (ie. on Asian and skin colour).
Retinoids still matter
Retinoids help pigmentation by increasing skin turnover. A major trial showed tretinoin significantly lightened PIH in black patients.
The downside? Around half developed retinoid dermatitis.
That’s why we favour retinal (retinaldehyde). It offers the same effectiveness as prescription vitamin A but with far less irritation.
Calm the inflammation
PIH after acne can be particularly severe in skin of colour. Treating acne early, gently and consistently is crucial. The same applies to other inflammatory conditions like eczema.
Repair the skin barrier
Pigmentation-affected skin often has a compromised barrier.
Barrier-supporting ingredients like niacinamide (which can also reduce pigmentation on its own) and ceramides help calm inflammation, strengthen the skin and improve outcomes.
The bottom line
When treating pigmentation in skin of colour, less irritation equals better results. Start with gentle, evidence-based topical skincare and sunscreen. Reserve procedures for later, and always address inflammation and barrier health alongside pigment control.
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