Blackheads...What are they and how do you get rid of them? Do blackhead removing masks work?
Blackheads AKA open comedones are part of acne along with white heads (AKA closed comedones!). Our ESK skintellectuals will know that there are 4 factors responsible for acne;
- Overproduction of skin cells, which die, leading to the formation of a blockage in the pores
- Increased oil AKA sebum production
- Overgrowth of bacteria – specifically C.acnes feeding off that excess oil
- Inflammation
In the case of acne, the oil, bacteria and dead skin cells that get stuck in the pores turn black because they attract surface pigment (melanin). There’s no dirt stuck in the pores.
How do you treat them?
The treatment for black heads is the same as for acne generally;
1. Soap free cleanser.
Soap itself is great at stripping oil out of the skin. Soaps also tend to cause inflammation and increase the pH of the skin. Studies have shown it doesn’t get rid of the bacteria, C. Acnes from the skin. But washing is important for acne-prone skin. Go for a gentler pH balanced soap free cleanser like ESK’s Hydroxy Cleanser or Gentle Cleanser.
Hydroxy Cleanser
Our Hydroxy Cleanser is a soap-free, pH-balanced cleanser that provides gentle yet effective cleansing for your skin. Lightly foaming, it removes dirt, excess oils, and impurities without drying or irritating, making it perfect for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Designed with a neutral to acidic pH, it’s ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with acne, aging skin and pigmentation. This cleanser helps preserve hydration, supports the skin’s microbiome, and normalises skin pH, creating the perfect base for your skincare routine. Free from harsh soaps, astringents, and irritants, Hydroxy Cleanser leaves skin feeling fresh, balanced, and ready for any treatment.
Featuring
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Gentle, soap free syndets to leave your skin feeling clean and soft
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A pH of 4.5-5 to maintain the skin barrier
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Perfect for daily use for normal/oily skin
2. Vitamin A AKA Retinoids.
These blockbuster ingredients help with cell turnover, so unclog pores, and promote the normal flow of sebum. Plus they seem to help reduce C. Acnes in the skin. All of this reduces the pimple count significantly. Vitamin A can either be on prescription from your doctor or in your skincare. Both prescription Vitamin A (Retinoic Acid) and Retinol- a form found in many skincare brands can be very irritating. Retinol also doesn’t have conclusive evidence to support its use. Retinal has great evidence to support its use in acne. It is the hero ingredient in ESK’s Ultimate A and Ultimate A+. Just a reminder that Vitamin A is rendered inactive by sunlight so should only be used at night- just once a day.
Ultimate A+
Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.
This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.
Featuring:
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Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
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Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
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Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
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Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity
Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.
3. Alpha Hydroxy Acids AKA (AHAs).
They help to gently remove dead skin cells and reduce inflammation. AHAs, as found in ESK’s Smooth Serum, also stimulate the growth of new skin cells which helps improve the appearance of acne scars and gives the impression of smaller pores. They also seem to make Vitamin A more effective. Because they can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, experts suggest using them at night as a leave on serum. They can also be used as a peel in the clinic.
Smooth Serum
Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.
Key features:
- Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture
- Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin
- Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture
Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.
4. Salicylic Acid.
Salicylic acid dissolves oil and exfoliates excess dead skin cells, is anti-inflammatory and helps combat the bacteria, C. Acnes. ESK’s Hydroxy Overnight Mask can be used as a weekly face treatment instead of your other skincare or as a spot treatment.
Hydroxy Overnight Mask
Our Hydroxy Overnight Mask is your go-to for clearer, glowing skin! With 5% salicylic acid and 10% urea, it’s a powerful yet gentle way to take on blemishes and keep skin hydrated. In oiler skin, Salicylic acid gently exfoliates for a smooth finish, while urea deeply moisturises. Use it as a spot treatment, or apply it once a week for an all-over refresh. Just cleanse, apply, and let this overnight mask work its magic while you sleep—wake up to softer, clearer, and radiant skin ready to take on the day!
Featuring;
- Gentle exfoliators for a weekly skin refresh
- Convenient size means you can keep it on hand to tackle blemishes when and wherever they happen
5. Good sunscreen.
Because hydroxy acids and vitamin A can make your skin more prone to sun damage, and because UV damage can cause significant inflammation in the skin, a sunscreen is always a good idea. ESK’s Zinc Shade is made of Zinc which is non comedogenic (doesn’t cause breakouts) and is anti-inflammatory in itself.
Zinc Shade
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.
We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.
Key features:
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Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
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Smooth application with minimal white cast
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Broad-spectrum UV protection
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Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage
Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
The trip to the doctor
If simple skincare doesn’t work, OR if your acne is already moderate to severe (large red throbbing pimples), you should see the doctor sooner than later. You are at risk of scarring. You might benefit from either antibiotics (applied directly onto the skin or orally). These need a prescription from the doctor. You might need oral Vitamin A which is the most powerful anti-acne treatment of all. You need to see a dermatologist for this treatment. Hormonal therapies like the pill and/or a medication called spironolactone can also be prescribed for in women and girls, but they work much more slowly.
Lasers and lights can also help but the results tend to be a bit unpredictable, even in the most experienced clinician’s hands. Most people get some improvement but it might not be the silver bullet you see on social media.
Can you squeeze a blackhead?
Yes. But be careful! Take these steps;
- Wash your hands and face
- Use a blackhead remover from the pharmacy
- Make sure you have even pressure around the blackhead
- Press down gently and remove the plug of oil and dead skin cells.
- Only do a couple at a time and if it doesn’t come out easily, abandon! Excessive squeezing causes inflammation of the skin which can make acne worse.
What about blackhead removing masks?
There is no evidence at all for anti-acne masks such as clay, oatmeal, cinnamon, or even honey (which does have a bit of evidence for combatting bacteria but not in acne).
References
https://www.racgp.org.au/afp/2017/december/acne-in-adolescents/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32385554/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30674002/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19746671/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21566426/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834713/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7738225/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3225141/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18053051/
https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/lasers-lights