The ESK blog

I Have Dry Skin, Why Do I Still Get Acne?

22 July 2021

It always amazes me how often dry skin and acne breakouts go together.

The fact that dry skin can sit right beside an oil slick strikes me as both massively unfair and also understandable when you think about what acne actually is.

HOW IS ACNE CAUSED?

First of all dry, red skin is often inflamed skin. Inflammation is a part of – although not the whole story, of acne. In a bizarre chicken and egg situation, we think the first step is “hyperkeratinisation” or an overgrowth of dead skin cells. These then obstruct the oil glands which then causes abnormal skin layers. Then under the command of your male hormones, your oil glands overproduce sebum (your skin’s natural oils), and finally the blocked oil-soaked oil glands and hair follicles are invaded by the nasty Propionibacterium acnes bacteria. These bacteria secrete a whole range of chemical warriors that cause intense local inflammation. This inflammation makes pimples rupture, and spread to other parts of the skin which causes further inflammation and scarring.
Anything that increases this inflammation will perpetuate this cycle.

THE URBAN MYTH

While I have often read that drying out your skin makes your skin make more sebum to compensate, this is a bit of an urban myth with no supporting scientific evidence. The actual link is that whatever is triggering your dry skin is probably also triggering inflammation, which is contributing to your acne.

One possibility is that you are unwittingly part of the problem!

Acne affected skin is oily, so in the attempt to banish the oil slick, you can end up cleansing with harsh soaps, applying drying out creams containing ingredients like Benzoyl Peroxide, or astringents and toners all of which can inflame your skin and therefore dry it out! This sets up a vicious cycle as irritated skin dries out and dry skin becomes more irritated and inflamed, which ironically can cause your acne to get worse.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO?

Use a sunscreen: Go for a zinc based sunscreen which is both non occlusive and non-irritating. All you need is UVA or UVB damage to cause more inflammation to an already inflamed skin. Our Zinc Shade does exactly this.

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
Smooth application with minimal white cast
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

Use skincare containing Vitamin B3: A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of 100 subjects that revealed topical 2% Vitamin B3 AKA niacinamide significantly lowered sebum excretion rates after two to four weeks of use. B Calm has Vitamin B3, formulated to help with Acne.

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

Avoid soap. Soap can further dry out and inflame skin. Choose a soap free cleanser like ESK’s Calming Cleanse.

Calming Cleanse

Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea.

This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier.

Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine.

Featuring;

A coconut sugar base with soothing botanical
A thorough yet gentle cleanse
Suitable for daily use and even as a make-up remover

A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.

Coconut based with soothing botanicals
Leaves skin clear & hydrated
May be used as a make-up remover

Try topical Vitamin A, especially in an evidence based form which has both comedolytic (pimple busting) and anti-inflammatory properties. Our Ultimate A and Ultimate A+ is formulated with retinal, a highly effective and non-irritating form of Vitamin A (better than retinol!).

Ultimate A

Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.

Key features:

0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use

Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

Avoid scrubs and other physical exfoliators which increase the inflammation in skin. Instead, use low concentration hydroxy acids (like Glycolic and Salicylic acid) like that contained in our Smooth Serum. They have evidence for reducing acne and improving skin hydration.

Smooth Serum

Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.

Key features:

Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture
Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin
Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture

Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.