The ESK blog
If my skin is oily, how can it be dry as well?
27 November 2024
OK, skin squad! Here’s a skin mystery that's puzzled many: if your skin is oily, how on earth can it be dry too? And do you really need a moisturiser? Spoiler alert: the answer is yes!
Let’s start by busting a major myth:
Your skin does NOT produce oil to offset underlying dryness. Drying out your skin will NOT make your skin make more oil to compensate for dehydration!
Your skin can be oily and dry at the same time because oiliness and hydration of the epidermis are two different issues.
- Oily skin is about the overproduction of sebum (that’s your skin’s natural oil).
- While dry skin is about a lack of moisture in the epidermis. And this is often as a result of a damaged skin barrier. The skin barrier is designed to keep water in and toxins out. Many inflammatory skin conditions, including acne come with an impaired skin barrier. And there is a self perpetuating cycle of inflammation and dryness that will make acne worse.
When your skin is both oily and dry, it means it’s producing too much oil and yet the damaged skin barrier means the skin is losing moisture. These things happen independently of each other.
Damaged Skin Barrier and Inflammatory Conditions
The skin barrier is your skin’s superhero cape – it keeps the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. When it’s damaged, your skin can’t retain moisture properly, leading to dryness. This damaged barrier often arises from inflammation, from conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea.
In the case of acne prone oily skin, fixing the skin barrier will often reduce acne inflammation and pimple numbers, even if it doesn’t directly reduce oil production.
Repairing the Skin Barrier Without Causing Acne
So, how do you repair your skin barrier without causing an acne flare-up? Here are some top tips:
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is a skincare superhero. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improve elasticity, and even out skin tone. It’s also great for controlling oil production and reducing inflammation, making it perfect for oily, acne-prone skin. Look for serums or moisturisers with niacinamide and apply them daily.
- Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids (fats) that are naturally found in high concentrations in the skin’s outer layers. They help hold skin cells together, forming a protective layer that keeps moisture in and harmful elements out. Using products that contain ceramides can help restore your skin’s barrier and has been specifically found to reduce inflammation and pimple numbers in acne skin. Opt for a ceramide-rich moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated without clogging pores.
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Panthenol is another fantastic ingredient that helps to improve the skin’s hydration, elasticity, and smooth appearance. It’s particularly good for soothing and repairing the skin barrier. Use a moisturizer or serum with panthenol to help calm your skin and lock in moisture.
- Avoid the Sun – Use a Zinc Sunscreen
Sun exposure can cause inflammation and therefore wreak havoc on your skin barrier. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with zinc oxide. Zinc not only protects your skin from harmful UV rays but also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that are beneficial for acne-prone skin.
- Avoid Soaps, Abrasive Scrubs, and Toners
Harsh soaps, abrasive scrubs, and alcohol-based toners can strip your skin of its natural oils, increase inflammation and raise the pH of your skin. Together they can really further damage your skin barrier. Opt for gentle, hydrating, low pH cleansers and avoid anything too harsh. Your skin will thank you!
- Try Not to Pick
We know it’s tempting, but picking at your skin can cause more damage to your barrier and lead to scars and more breakouts. Keep your hands off your face and let your skin heal naturally.
Do You Really Need a Moisturiser?
Absolutely! Even if your skin is oily, it still needs hydration. The point of using a hydrating moisturiser is to add hydration and reverse the inflammation. That will not only help your skin feel less irritated but ironically reduce pimples as well!. Look for non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores) formulas to keep your skin happy and hydrated.
Bottom line; Your skin can be oily and dry at the same time, but with the right products and care, you can repair your skin barrier and keep those pesky breakouts at bay. Remember, consistency is key – stick to a routine that works for you and your skin will glow in no time!