Hello skintellectuals! I am now back in Sydney after having spent much of July on planes to and from the US. We started the month in Las Vegas- our US base. It was HOT!!!!!! For those of you who speak Celsius, we’re talking 40 plus every day. I dashed home for the release of my new book, The Women’s Longevity Handbook. After doing the rounds on TV, radio, in podcast studios and the rest, I ended up on a plane 3 days later back to Vegas! Once back in Vegas, we continued meetings and attended the massive Cosmoprof convention which is billed as a leading B2B Beauty Trade Show in the Americas. It was fascinating! While delving into innovations around the beauty industry, I still sat down with a stack of medical journals- and these ones caught my eye this month!
This is why your acne treatment might be making the entire problem worse
For years we've thought of acne as simply "too much Cutibacterium acnes" (formerly Propionibacterium acnes). But a new review in the journal Dermatology and Therapy reminds us that the facial microbiome is far more complex than that. Healthy skin is home to billions of bacteria, with C. acnes and another “bad” bacteria- Staphylococcus epidermidis actually playing important roles in maintaining the skin barrier, regulating inflammation and preventing harmful microbes from taking over.
It turns out that the problem isn't necessarily the presence of C. acnes, but which strains are present and whether the delicate balance of the microbiome has been disrupted. Acne-prone skin appears to have less diversity, with an over-representation of certain inflammatory strains of C. acnes and changes in the numbers of S. epidermidis growing on the skin. Traditional acne treatments such as antibiotics and benzoyl peroxide reduce the total number of bacteria on the skin- but they can also disrupt this microbial ecosystem. That’s going to disrupt the skin barrier and even make your skin health worse.
Microbiome-based treatments, including topical probiotics and other strategies that restore microbial balance, are promising, although the evidence is still emerging and more high-quality clinical trials are needed before they become part of routine practice. Meanwhile we know that tackling overproduction of skin cells that block pores, inflammation and oil production using skincare actives works well and they don’t appear to wreck your skin’s microbiome.
Acne-prone/Oily kit
Acne shows up when your skin responds with inflammation to an excess of the C Acnes bacteria. Excess oil production and an irregular skin cell turnover combine to block pores in the skin creating the conditions where the bacteria flourish. Designing a skincare regimen with this in mind is the first step to helping get your skin under control.
This kit is designed for oilier, acne-prone skin. Using ingredients with strong scientific evidence, it helps maintain a balanced skin surface, supports an even-looking skin tone, and helps improve appearance and texture. The formulation also supports hydration without feeling heavy or greasy.
UV damage starts with your skin barrier
For years we've thought about UV damage as causing DNA mutations, wrinkles and skin cancer. And that’s all true. But a new study published in the journal Dermatology suggests something happens even earlier: the skin barrier is one of UV radiation's very first targets. Rather than being a late consequence of sun damage, barrier disruption may actually trigger many of the downstream changes we associate with photo-aging.
The study’s authors describe how UV radiation damages the lipids that hold the outer skin barrier together, disrupts tight junctions between skin cells, increases transepidermal water loss and alters the skin microbiome. These early changes then set off a cascade of oxidative stress, inflammation and immune dysfunction that contributes to premature skin aging plus increases susceptibility to inflammatory skin conditions.
No surprises that sunscreen remains the cornerstone of photoprotection. While there is growing interest in sunscreens containing antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes and microbiome-supporting ingredients, the clinical evidence for these newer approaches is still evolving. For now, the best strategy remains broad-spectrum sunscreen combined with skincare that supports a healthy skin barrier.
Zinc Shade
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.
We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.
Key features:
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Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
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Smooth application with minimal white cast
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Broad-spectrum UV protection
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Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage
Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
Laser is not the magic wand for pigmentation
Every time I go to a skin conference, I am surrounded by sellers of lasers that promise to be effective and gentle on pigmentation. Whoa tonto! Not so fast! A new review in the journal Dermatology Clinics looked at every single major laser treatment for melasma, from Q-switched Nd:YAG and picosecond lasers through to IPL, photobiomodulation and fractional lasers. While many of these devices can improve pigmentation, one message came through loud and clear: laser isn’t a cure and it works best when it's combined with good skincare and ongoing maintenance. And skincare (including a good SPF) should be FIRST line in treating pigmentation in everyone.
That’s because melasma isn't simply "too much pigment". It's a chronic inflammatory condition driven by UV exposure, hormones, heat, blood vessels and changes in the skin itself.
The review repeatedly emphasises that topical skincare before and after laser treatment helps prepare the skin, speeds recovery, reduces rebound pigmentation and maintains the benefits of treatment. In fact, the authors say that tailored skincare is the most important strategy in successful melasma management.
Importantly, no laser cured melasma. Rebound pigmentation and recurrence remained common across all technologies. The treatments with the best long-term outcomes combined laser with broad-spectrum sunscreen and pigment-suppressing ingredients.
If you're investing in laser for melasma, don't think of skincare as the "aftercare". Think of it as an essential part of the treatment itself. The laser may break up existing pigment, but your daily skincare routine is what helps stop your skin making more of it.
Shop ESK Pigmentation Collection
Golden Pigmentation Duo
This duo pairs high-performance, evidence-based formulations which are gentle on your skin, but not on hyperpigmentation. It’s designed to tackle uneven skin tone and texture.
It also helps to support hydration, the skin barrier and skin roughness. If that’s not enough it is also excellent for helping keep your skin looking younger, brighter and more vibrant!
Golden Duo contains:
Enlighten Gold: A moisturiser powered by PHAs, Niacinamide and 4nB to help support barrier function and hydration while reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone and dark spots.
Ultimate A Gold: A next-generation Retinal based night cream that helps refine skin texture and visibly smooth fine lines for firmer, more even-looking skin. And with a long list of ingredients including 4nB it also helps zero in on uneven looking skin tone.
Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.