The ESK blog
March 2026 Science Wrap Up
24 March 2026
March has been a hot month for me here in Sydney. This week I farewelled my gorgeous son, daughter in law and granddaughter, Sasha as they headed home to New York after a beautiful 5-week stint Down Under. If you see my eyes a little redder and a bit more swollen- that’s why! Having a 4 month old baby on the scene certainly changes the patina of your day. It has been BUSY!!!!!! And busy over in the UK too where ESK took pride of place at the inaugural Women in Aesthetics conference in London! And that ties in really nicely to some of this month’s stories for our March Science wrap..
Higher strength Retinal for skin aging
A new Polish study published in the journal Skin Therapy Letter, has taken a close look at our fav form of Vitamin A, Retinal AKA Retinaldehyde, the most potent Vitamin A derivative used in skincare. Researchers enrolled 56 women aged 30–58 and used a clever split-face design: participants applied 0.1% Retinal to one side of the face and 0.05% to the other for 24 weeks, meaning each person effectively acted as her own control.
Instead of relying on subjective assessments, the researchers used high-tech skin imaging tools including 3D wrinkle analysis, ultrasound to measure dermal density (a proxy for collagen), and a Cutometer to assess skin elasticity.
The results were awesome. Not surprisingly, both Retinal strengths improved skin firmness, elasticity and dermal density, suggesting structural changes in the dermis over time. But when it came to actual wrinkle reduction, the 0.1% Retinal was a clear winner, with more significant improvements in skin texture, fine lines, wrinkles and hydration. Here at ESK we have suspected it for a while, but this study gives us firmer evidence!!!
And yet again this study confirmed how well tolerated Retinal is, even at the higher concentration with only one person experiencing a bit of mild short-lived irritation. Just a quick reminder that we have zero evidence for concentrations above 0.1%- the same for Retinoic Acid (prescription Vitamin A).
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Should you put vaginal oestrogen on your face?
Topical estrogen creams are having a moment in the anti-aging world, but the science is still catching up with the hype. A new review published in the journal JAAD reviews looked at 14 human studies using topical oestradiol or oestriol (the typical form of oestrogen in vaginal products) on aging skin. Under the microscope, the results are encouraging. Oestrogen appears to stimulate collagen production, thicken the epidermis, and activate fibroblasts, the hardworking cells that help maintain skin structure. Some studies also showed increased elastin and improved blood vessel density.
But these microscopic improvements didn’t consistently translate into visible changes. In controlled trials, wrinkle reduction and overall skin appearance often showed little or no improvement. The effects also seem weaker in sun-damaged skin, where UV damage may blunt fibroblast responses. Like the face, neck and decolletage.
There is evidence that topical oestrogen can be absorbed and cause measurable hormonal effects in some people. That could potentially spell trouble for your uterus! Putting oestrogen into the body without progesterone can thicken the uterus lining and in some cases has even been linked to cancer.
So, while the biology is fascinating, and oestrogen cream on the vagina is a well-established and safe treatment for menopausal vaginal dryness, I’d avoid using it on the face.
Magnesium for skin
Magnesium doesn’t usually get much airtime in skincare conversations, but a new review – once again in the journal JAAD Reviews suggests it might deserve a little more attention. Magnesium is involved in more than 300 enzymatic reactions in the body and appears to play several roles in skin health. Laboratory and early clinical studies suggest it can support the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, boost antioxidant defences and help with wound healing. It may also influence keratinocytes, fibroblasts and collagen stability.
Some small studies hint at potential benefits in conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, wound healing and even hydration in aging skin. For example, magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt baths have been shown to improve skin barrier function in people with eczema, and magnesium dressings may help wounds heal faster.
That said, the evidence is still early and often comes from small or varied studies. Magnesium isn’t a first-line dermatology treatment yet, but it may turn out to be a useful adjunct for skin health as better trials emerge. And I am watching this space closely- trust me if the evidence firms up, it will be in ESK products soon!