I don’t want to freak you out too much but it’s almost Christmas! And the skin world has been dealing with some drama. I feel like no sooner had we dealt with the scandal about SPF testing (in case you missed it, Choice magazine independently tested 20 sunscreens- 16 of which failed!), but we got action from the NSW Environmental Protection Authority, upholding an (until now) voluntary ban put in place in 2022 on microplastic exfoliators. Trust in the industry is understandably sporting some war wounds.
Here is what we at ESK are doing to retain your trust:
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We formulate around ingredients with solid human data, and we explain the evidence (levels, key trials, realistic outcomes) in plain English—no fairy dust or hype
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We disclose concentrations of key ingredients, a full list and the pH of our products
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We have a money back guarantee
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We don’t touch up any before and after photos from our customers
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We have actual human in customer care working 6 days a week by phone, chat and email
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Customer data is kept confidential and never sold
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Relentless pursuit of the latest science. As your official skin science nerd I am always up to my nose in the studies- which I share with you each month….. speaking of which- here is November’s haul!
Antioxidants for pigmentation
A new Indian study looked at how oxidative stress- which, as you know, is the result of an imbalance between free radicals and antioxidants- plays a role in melasma. Sixty patients were treated for 24 weeks with either a 577 nm yellow light laser plus 0.3% 4-n-butylresorcinol (4NB) serum or the serum alone. They didn’t test the laser alone. The 4NB serum was used once daily at night. The laser targets blood vessels and pigment, while – as ESK customers know - 4-n-butylresorcinol inhibits tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production.
The combo group showed a much greater drop in markers of oxidative stress. Clinically, that means better brightening, less pigment recurrence and potentially healthier skin overall.
The laser + resorcinol duo outperformed the serum alone, likely because it tackles both the vascular and oxidative sides of melasma. It’s another piece of evidence that treating pigmentation isn’t just about fading spots; it’s also about restoring balance in the skin’s ability to combat oxidative stress.
Botox for melasma? New research says maybe yes!
A Thai research team has found that botulinum toxin A (BoNT-A) AKA Botox -best known for smoothing wrinkles- may also help treat and prevent pigmentation, especially when combined with standard topical therapies.
In this split-face randomised trial, 30 women with melasma used a triple-combination cream (the super common combo of hydroquinone, tretinoin and fluocinolone) on both cheeks. One side also received two sessions of Botox. After 24 weeks, the Botox-treated side showed a 37% improvement in pigmentation scores versus a 21% worsening on the cream-only side. The Botox side also stayed clearer after stopping treatment! Plus the patients in the trial on Botox and the topical combo were significantly happier with the results than those on the hydroquinone combo alone.
Researchers think Botox helps by blocking acetylcholine, which normally stimulates pigment production, and by calming inflammation and vascular changes that drive melasma. The treatment was safe, just mild redness and swelling that settled quickly.
Collagen powders- are we there yet?
It’s the TikTok trend that won’t go away. Collagen accounts for over 90% of skin mass and maintains its strength. As people age, collagen production drops by 1–1.5% each year, leading to more wrinkles and facial lines. Aging also reduces other key components like elastin, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans, decreasing skin moisture and structure. These changes result in drier, less elastic skin and increased wrinkles. So scientists have wondered whether collagen supplements could help repair skin, slow collagen loss, and improve elasticity and texture by promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid production.
A new meta-analysis published in The American Journal of Medicine pulled together 23 randomised controlled trials (1,474 people) looking at skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles. At first glance, collagen looked good! Pooled results showed improvements across all three “end points”. But when the authors dug deeper, the gloss came off. All the pluses were seen in poor quality, industry-funded trials. In high-quality trials not funded by industry, collagen didn’t beat placebo for hydration, elasticity or wrinkles.
Despite the marketing, the most robust, non-industry and higher-quality evidence doesn’t support collagen supplements for anti-aging skin outcomes right now. If you’re investing in your skin, proven cosmeceuticals and sun protection are still the smarter spend.
Wind back the clock with this bundle of ingredients full of anti-oxidants scientifically crafted products using evidence-based ingredients. We've swapped Ultimate A with the new Ultimate A Gold. If you prefer Ultimate A, you can build your own kit here.
Mature Kit