Hello skintellectuals. I hope you have had a great month. We flew back to Sydney after a blur of media and launch parties. So far, by all accounts, you are all loving Ultimate A Gold as much as we are. We have more in the pipeline with my bestie and partner in crime- actress Selma Blair. You will hear it here first! I am now knee deep editing my next book, embracing Menopause Awareness month and preparing for the birth of my incoming grandchildren. Not twins- although they might as well have been! Our eldest two sons – who have always been closest friends- married close friends from high school (they were all in each other’s bridal parties) and are now having babies due 2 weeks apart! By the time I write our next science wrap, I will sign off as nana. Here is my latest haul of studies- some real crackers!
No, going gluten-free won’t help your skin
I was fascinated by a new study in the Journal Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology that looked at three diets- low-calorie, vegetarian, and gluten-free and what their relationship was to various skin diseases (acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, psoriatic arthritis). Intriguingly, the low-calorie diet slightly upped the risk of arthritis linked to psoriasis. Everything else was negative. There was no increased or decreased risk of skin disease with any of these diets.
Before anyone rewrites their meal plan, the authors are cautious. Diet exposure was self-reported (messy) and most participants were of European ancestry.
What I took away from all of this was that despite some hyped claims on TikTok, we actually need a balanced, nutritious diet without the fad components. There is no evidence of any skin wins from “going gluten-free,” going vegetarian or “cutting calories”, and don’t blame those diets for flares either.
Managing pigmentation from acne- it’s topicals first and pH matters
Next, I always pounce on studies around pigmentation- especially in skin of colour. So, I immediately downloaded a new expert report in Acta Dermato-Venereologica tackling acne-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (AKA PIH) which is especially common in darker skin.
What stood out to me is that PIH is very common after acne in darker skin types and can linger for ≥1 year, sometimes happening even when acne looks mild. Any inflammation can kick it off.
Prevention is the cornerstone, the authors said. Daily use of broad spectrum sunscreen should be paired with a gentle pH (around 5) cleanser. For treatment, the algorithm prioritises topicals: retinoids, azelaic acid, and a tyrosinase inhibitor – 4NB was specifically mentioned! (Ideally twice daily). Oral tranexamic acid is flagged as an option in SOME hyperpigmentation cases. Caution: over-irritation (including from retinoids) can cause iatrogenic PIH, so retinal is a good option to both treat the acne and protect the skin barrier.
The Pigmentation Kit combines evidence-based ingredients designed to support a refreshed skin and a more even skin tone while restoring hydration. Key features: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy or while trying to conceive. We've swapped Ultimate A with the new Ultimate A Gold. If you prefer Ultimate A, you can build your own kit here.
Pigmentation Kit
C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.
In terms of devices/peels, once again there are yet more guidelines saying they are an option- BUT only after trying topicals and using conservative settings where PIH is a risk.
Carotenoids- what are they and can they help my skin?
A new review published in the Journal, Nutrients pulled together 176 studies on carotenoids (which are nutrients like beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, astaxanthin) and skin aging. These nutrients act like multi-tasking bodyguards, reducing inflammation, and helping preserve collagen by reining in MMPs (the enzymes in the skin that break down collagen) so your skin looks and behaves “younger.” They also help with your skin’s hydration by nudging hyaluronic acid pathways as well as boosting chemicals in the skin called aquaporins, which move water and glycerol in the epidermis.
On sun defence, both oral and topical carotenoids (less evidence for this) lift the skin’s baseline protection, the review found. Studies report better resistance to UV-induced redness and pigmentation plus improved elasticity/smoothness, especially when carotenoids are combined with other antioxidants ( like vitamins C/E). In terms of dietary carotenoids there were some interesting take-aways- like unsaturated fats (olive/sunflower) boost absorption; lightly cooking tomatoes increases bioavailability.
Caveats: the evidence is patchy, so the authors don’t set a “golden dose.” High or poorly balanced intakes can flip from anti-inflammatory to pro-oxidant behaviour, and beta-carotene supplements in smokers have been historically linked to harm. So, the authors said, a food-first approach is safest. Also, while carotenoids are promising for photoprotection, they haven’t proven they prevent skin cancer.
But it certainly won’t hurt you to eat all the colours (tomatoes, leafy greens, pumpkin, papaya) with healthy fats, and to keep using sunscreen! For post-menopausal skin or high-pollution lifestyles, carotenoids could end up being a sensible add-on, but remember they’re helpers, not magicians!
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