Here in Sydney Spring has hit my nose with a vengeance. I can’t complain, though having just returned from a holiday in Europe. We went hiking in Italy- which frankly was a bit beyond my fitness level!! The scenery, however, did not disappoint! I came home to International Menopause month and spent much of the month speaking at events near and far and doing webinars for workplaces. Coming home also meant I was champing at the bit to check out what had been published in the world of skin journals. Some really interesting stuff! And I thought I would kick off with a couple new studies of menopause and the skin…..
Menopause and your skin: Just how much do hormones matter?
We talk a lot about hot flushes, sleep problems and brain fog during menopause- especially in October- AKA International Menopause Month. But what about our skin?
A new article published in the journal Menopause, written by a dermatologist from the Mayo Clinic, explores just how dramatically hormonal changes can affect our skin.
And there are some fascinating statistics!
As I have said so many times, collagen levels decline by an average of around 2.1% per year after menopause, while skin elasticity decreases by approximately 1.5% annually. That's significant when you consider that collagen provides our skin with its structure and firmness.
But it's not just about wrinkles. Declining oestrogen, progesterone and even testosterone can also contribute to drier skin, reduced skin thickness, changes in pigmentation and slower wound healing. Skin may become more fragile, bruise more easily and take longer to recover from minor injuries.
And acne doesn't necessarily disappear with age! The review cites research showing that 15.3% of women aged 50 and over reported acne. Hard relate!
So, can replacing those declining hormones help?
The authors found evidence that HRT or hormone replacement therapy improves skin collagen, hydration and elasticity, with some studies also suggesting benefits for wound healing.
However, there's an important catch. HRT isn't recommended solely to improve skin appearance, and the safety of applying vaginal oestrogen preparations to the face hasn't been established. Fortunately, hormones aren't our only option. As for rubbing your vaginal oestrogen on your face, the authors said that there is some evidence it helps (although not better than your gold star evidence-based cosmeceuticals. But they had this word of warning: “safety of topical vaginal estrogen preparations when used off-label (such as on the face) has not been established.”
The review highlights evidence-based skincare ingredients including topical retinoids, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, alongside sun protection, as important tools for managing skin ageing. Note- the very ingredients that work on pre -and post-menopausal skin as well as male skin!!
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Menopause / Perimenopause Kit
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Featuring;
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Why stop there? Could hormone therapy be the next big thing in anti-ageing skincare?
We know menopause can wreak havoc on our skin. Suddenly it's drier, thinner, less elastic, and those wrinkles seem to be multiplying overnight. But could replacing declining oestrogen using HRT or hormone replacement therapy really help reverse some of these changes?
A fascinating new paper published in the journal Life explores exactly that question.
The authors, researchers in skin biology and dermatology, explain that oestrogen does much more than regulate our reproductive system. It also plays an important role in maintaining skin collagen, elasticity, hydration and thickness.
As oestrogen levels decline during menopause, our skin undergoes structural changes. Collagen production falls, the skin becomes thinner, and its ability to retain moisture and repair damage can deteriorate. As we knew already.
Here's where things get interesting.
The authors reviewed evidence suggesting that HRT can improve several measures of skin health, including collagen content, hydration, thickness and elasticity.
They also discuss the timing hypothesis, the idea that starting hormone therapy closer to menopause – or even in perimenopause may produce different outcomes from starting it much later.
And they raise a provocative question: Should HRT be considered for skin ageing, even in women who don't have troublesome menopausal symptoms?
Cue the outcry from menopause experts. It's certainly a departure from current clinical recommendations!
While some studies show improvements in skin measurements, we don't yet have convincing evidence that prescribing MHT specifically for cosmetic purposes delivers benefits that outweigh its potential risks.
And let's not forget that skin ageing isn't all about hormones. Sun exposure, genetics, smoking and other lifestyle factors also play enormous roles.
The way I see it, oestrogen is an important part of the skin-ageing story, and HRT is likely to offer skin benefits for women taking it for established medical indications.
But I wouldn't recommend starting hormone therapy purely to improve wrinkles.
For now, daily sun protection and evidence-based skincare remain essential, whether you're taking HRT or not!
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Mature Kit
OK enough about menopause…..
Creatine for your skin? Now that's a surprise!
We've all heard about creatine. It's the supplement gym enthusiasts take to help build muscle, and increasingly it's being investigated for benefits in healthy ageing and brain function. But could it also help keep our skin firmer and younger-looking? A new review published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology suggests it just might!
Creatine plays an important role in cellular energy production. And while we usually think about that in relation to muscles, our skin cells also need plenty of energy to repair damage, manufacture collagen and maintain healthy function.
As we age, our skin's energy systems become less efficient. The researchers suggest that creatine may help replenish cellular energy stores, support collagen production and protect against oxidative stress. And there are some interesting early results!
The review identified eight (VERY) small clinical investigations involving a total of 344 people using topical creatine formulations.
In one study involving 43 men, a cream containing creatine and creatinine produced measurable improvements in facial sagging after just six weeks. Another study involving 36 women aged 35–55 found improvements in skin firmness after two to five weeks using a cream containing creatine and folic acid.
Laboratory studies also suggest creatine may stimulate collagen production and help protect skin cells against UV-induced damage.
But what about taking creatine supplements? Not so fast. The researchers found no clinical studies directly demonstrating that oral creatine improves skin firmness.
And even the topical studies are small, short-term and often involve other active ingredients, making it difficult to know how much of the benefit comes from creatine itself.
Creatine is an intriguing potential skincare ingredient, particularly because it targets cellular energy rather than the more familiar pathways of skin ageing. But we're a long way from recommending creatine supplements for wrinkles or sagging skin. For now, it's one to watch rather than rush out and buy! And I’m not formulating any new creatine creams for ESK for the time being!