The ESK blog

September 2025 Science Wrap Up

24 September 2025

Hello from London! September has been the most full-on since ESK opened its doors in 2017. On the 7th Daniel and I flew out to the US to begin our launch tour for our BRAND-NEW Ultimate A Gold. Selma Blair, Daniel and I have been tweaking and honing this product for over 6 months. It takes 0.1% Retinal and combines it with 5% niacinamide, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, PHAs and our favourite tyrosinase inhibitor- 4NB!! It’s super hydrating and kind of does a few jobs in a single, cost-effective skin product. Everyone who’s tried it so far has been soooooooo impressed! So we started with a media day in New York- a whirlwind of 11 of the most amazing publications. Pinch me!!!!!! But wait, we went next to LA and did it all again. Selma and I even did an exclusive together for Forbes Magazine!! On the 24th, Ultimate A Gold had her official outing on the Today Show in New York- and then we had a launch party at an Uber cool New York location! Then we’ve jetted over to London where we’ve been speed dating the media. And our UK launch party is about to happen. I can’t even believe what is happening to this little Aussie brand. I’m beside myself and trying to be VERY mindful about this journey. But despite the hair, makeup, heels and fashion, I remain a science nerd at heart! And here is the latest Science Wrap!!

The skin microbiome in older looking skin - and the secret to fixing it

As we get older, we now know that there are changes in the tiny ecosystem of microbes that live on our skin. A new Chinese study published in the British Journal of Dermatology compared 30 women in their 40s who looked older than their years (with more wrinkles) to 35 women who looked younger, but had the same chronological age. The “older-looking” group had more of certain bacteria, like Acinetobacter, which have also been linked with aging in other studies, and their skin microbiome was less resilient. In contrast, the “younger-looking” women had more Cutibacterium (often linked with healthier, more balanced skin) and a stronger microbial network.

Guess what? The researchers found that using a vitamin A-containing skincare routine for just four weeks not only improved wrinkles, hydration, and elasticity, it also shifted the microbiome of the older-looking group toward a more “youthful” profile. Acinetobacter levels dropped, Cutibacterium increased, and the microbial community became stronger and more interconnected. The researchers suggested the microbiome isn’t just a bystander, it may actively influence how our skin looks as we age, and skincare can help “reset” it toward a healthier balance.

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product.

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated.

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

Is your child a Sephora kid? Read this!

The rise of the “Sephora Kids” trend, where tweens and teens buy skincare and makeup marketed by big beauty retailers has sparked concern among dermatologists. According to an editorial in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, children’s skin is thinner, more sensitive, and more easily irritated than adult skin, yet many of the fave Sephora products contain strong irritating ingredients like Retinol, exfoliating acids (AHAs and BHAs), and high-dose Vitamin C. While these may be effective in adults, the reviewers found little to no research confirming their safety or effectiveness in children. It turns out, said the researchers, they can cause redness, dermatitis, skin barrier damage, and increased sun sensitivity.

Beyond the physical risks, the study highlighted the psychological side of this trend. The pressure to use sophisticated beauty products at such a young age, often driven by TikTok and influencers, may reinforce unrealistic beauty standards and harm self-esteem. The researchers stressed the need for more research but also for open conversations about body image and self-expression, so kids can explore beauty in a way that’s safe and supportive of their overall wellbeing. From my end, it would be a great opportunity to chat about cleansing and sunscreen!

And finally - skincare for the body and soul

A new paper in the journal, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology argues that skin is much more than a cosmetic surface. It’s deeply connected to overall health and well-being. The authors highlight how some skin conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne are strongly linked to systemic problems like diabetes, obesity, cardiovascular disease, and even mood issues. Inflammation in the skin can spill over into the rest of the body, fuelling wider health issues, while treating these skin conditions often improves both physical and psychological outcomes.

Daily skin care also plays a role: simple steps like moisturising can strengthen the skin barrier, lower inflammation, and in some studies even say it can help with issues as varied as constipation, cognitive decline, and infection risk in premature babies.

The review emphasises that keeping skin healthy isn’t just about looks- it may slow aging-related inflammation (“inflammaging”), improve quality of life, and support systemic health. Focusing on hydration and barrier repair can boost confidence and self-esteem while at the same time protecting your health!

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin