The ESK blog
September 2026 Science Wrap Up
24 September 2026
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Hello from France. I am on holiday. Thank goodness. It’s been a month. My mum passed away in unusual battle with cancer culminating in VAD. For anyone who has ridden the rollercoaster with parents at the end of life- I see you. I actually podcasted about my experience with mum- you can listen to it HERE (grab your tissues). So, I grabbed Daniel, left the laptop at home and went hiking in Italy- followed by a 60th in Champagne. Which is why I cluster read all the medical journals. Here are some crackers for you;
Red light therapy: worth the hype?
Red light therapy is everywhere right now, from LED masks to full-body panels, but does the science match the marketing? A new review published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology says: sort of, but don’t expect miracles.
Red light, usually around 620–700 nm, penetrates into the skin and appears to stimulate mitochondria, increasing cellular energy and triggering pathways involved in inflammation, healing and collagen production.
The best evidence is for modest improvements in fine lines, skin texture and tone, acne and hair growth, but results generally require regular treatment for weeks or months. For wrinkles, improvements have been seen after around 4–8 weeks, but they’re very subtle and maintenance is needed. Evidence for scars, wound healing and stretch marks is much less convincing.
The big problem? Marketing has sprinted miles ahead of the science. Claims of “facelifts”, overnight acne clearing or dramatic collagen regeneration simply aren’t supported. The authors said it best; “Overall, RLT does not fully live up to the claims made in commercial advertising. While existing evidence supports several therapeutic and cosmetic applications, marketing consistently overstates the magnitude, speed, and universality of results. “
At least we have evidence-based skincare!
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Kids are getting into skincare younger. Is that a problem?
Thanks to TikTok and the whole “Sephora kids” phenomenon, children are starting skincare routines much earlier, often experimenting with products designed for adult skin.
In the very same issue of the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, a new study looked at skincare habits across generations, alongside safety testing of a very simple three-step routine: gentle cleanser, moisturiser and SPF in children and teens. These basic products were well tolerated, with no meaningful increases in redness, dryness or irritation.
But the survey revealed something I guess we already knew: skincare use is starting younger, while daily sunscreen use in 8–17-year-olds is still pathetically low. Meanwhile, social media is helping drive interest in increasingly complicated routines and active ingredients that younger skin generally doesn’t need.
The takeaway is refreshingly boring: kids don’t need a 10-step routine. Keep it gentle, simple and age appropriate. Cleanser if needed, moisturiser if needed, and sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen. Save the anti-ageing actives for skin that is actually ageing!
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Melasma: what do the experts now agree on?
A new international consensus brought together 40 pigment experts from 11 countries to tackle one of skincare’s trickiest problems: melasma. They came up with 34 statements about melasma- some weren’t new. Some were stark.
For example, the experts agreed that melasma isn’t a “quick fix” pigmentation problem. It usually needs a long-term maintenance strategy, careful sun protection and realistic expectations about recurrence.
Having said that, the experts agreed that sunscreen is absolutely non-negotiable. Broad-spectrum sunscreen is the foundation of treatment because UV exposure is a major trigger and melasma has a frustrating tendency to come back.
What stood out to me was that the experts agree- procedures such as chemical peels and microneedling can be useful add-ons, while lasers should generally be saved for stubborn, treatment-resistant cases. We get so many comments on our socials from people who have been told that the only treatment for any form of pigmentation is laser- and that laser is curative. This review from the experts put both of those ideas to rest.
For active treatment, hydroquinone-based triple combination therapy remains the gold standard, but it needs medical supervision. The experts reviewed all sorts of topicals. But it’s a topicals first- and a topicals long term approach – with sunscreen daily that will be your best bet!
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The Pigmentation Kit combines evidence-based ingredients designed to support a refreshed skin and a more even skin tone while restoring hydration. Key features: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy or while trying to conceive. We've swapped Ultimate A with the new Ultimate A Gold. If you prefer Ultimate A, you can build your own kit here.
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C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.