The ESK blog
The Science of Retinal (Retinaldehyde): Why It’s the Future of Skincare
15 April 2025
When it comes to skincare, Vitamin A is the undisputed rockstar ingredient of anti-aging and topical acne treatment. You’ve no doubt heard of retinol, but it’s only one of many in the group of Vitamin A derivatives, known collectively as retinoids. And there’s a new kid on the retinoid block making headlines in the skincare world – meet retinal, aka retinaldehyde. Why the headlines? Because it looks as though we finally have an over-the-counter retinoid, backed by solid evidence, that delivers powerful benefits for anti-aging and acne skincare with faster results and fewer side effects. 11 times faster acting than retinol? 20 times as potent? Suitable for sensitive skin? Retinal skincare ticks all the boxes! Let's take a look at the science behind this superstar ingredient and why it’s the future of anti-aging skincare.
What is Retinal?
Retinal, aka retinaldehyde, is part of a larger group of Vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids. Available over the counter as retinal cream, retinal serum or retinal night cream, it’s has been shown to boost collagen, increase cell turnover and control pigmentation to combat the signs of aging. Retinal skincare also controls the excess sebum production and bacteria of acne. All whilst being extremely gentle making it ideal for those with sensitive skin.
How does it do this? Here’s the science-y bit: all retinoids must be converted into retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A, to have any effect. The more steps needed on this conversion pathway, the weaker and less potent the retinoid. Retinol has to go through two conversion steps to become retinoic acid, whereas retinal only requires one step. In other words, retinal is the direct precursor to retinoic acid, making it more potent and faster-acting than its other over-the-counter cousins.
Despite this potency, we rarely see traditional retinoid side-effects with retinal skincare, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. This could be because retinal is converted into retinoic acid in already differentiated skin cells, meaning the release of retinoic acid is more controlled.
Faster, better results without the side-effects? Yes please!
Retinal vs. Retinol: Which is Better?
Both retinal and retinol are derivatives of Vitamin A available without a doctor’s prescription in skincare products, but retinal has some distinct advantages:
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Faster conversion to retinoic acid: Retinol needs to be converted into retinal before it can become retinoic acid, adding an extra step that slows down results. Retinal, however, converts directly into retinoic acid making it work up to 11 times faster than retinol. That’s speedy!
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Similar efficacy to prescription retinoids with fewer side effects: Studies show that retinal offers comparable anti-aging benefits to tretinoin (prescription retinoic acid) but without the irritation. Yes, you read that right, similar results to prescription-only Vitamin A cream!
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Retinal supports the skin barrier -great news for sensitive skin - whereas retinol has been shown to disrupt the skin barrier.
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Anti-bacterial: Retinal, unlike retinol, has been shown to have unique anti-bacterial effects against the acne-causing bacteria C. acnes, making it the better choice for acne-prone skin.
What Are the Benefits of Retinal for Aging Skin?
Looking to smooth fine lines, even out skin tone, and boost collagen? With similar results to prescription-strength tretinoin, here are some of the proven ways retinal turns back the clock on aging skin:
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Reduces fine lines and wrinkles: Retinal boosts collagen production, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
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Speeds up cell turnover: It accelerates the shedding of old skin cells and the production of new ones, leading to brighter, smoother skin.
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Evens out pigmentation: Retinal helps fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots by inhibiting excess melanin production.
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Protects against environmental damage: As an antioxidant, retinal helps combat oxidative stress, which contributes to premature aging.
Can Sensitive Skin Use Retinal?
Yes! While some retinoids can be too harsh for sensitive skin (“retinol burn” anyone?), retinal offers a gentler alternative without sacrificing results thanks to its one step conversion to retinoic acid. We even have studies showing its effectiveness and tolerability in rosacea-prone skin, one of the most sensitive skin types around!
Final thoughts
Here at ESK, we don’t follow skincare trends, we follow the evidence. We are committed to using only ingredients which have been scientifically proven to be effective, which is why we chose retinal – in fact trying to find effective and evidence-based Vitamin A skincare was one of the driving forces behind the birth of ESK skincare! If you’re looking to upgrade your anti-aging skincare routine, retinal skincare might just be the game-changer you’ve been waiting for!
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin. Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A
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