The ESK blog

We dissect the ingredients of a $1,500 face cream…

08 September 2021

Dr Ginni Mansberg

Given the cost of some of the evidence-based ingredients in skincare, we’re pretty confident that you won’t find many at your local discount pharmacy or department store. But at the other end of the spectrum, we’re pretty skeptical of products with high prices, so we put one to the test!

A quick word on our tagline “evidence-based”: Evidence describes something which has been sufficiently and appropriately analysed so that we can say with confidence that it works. To be sure there are limitations – it doesn’t tell us what is actually the best, and as most practitioners of traditional medicine will tell you, while properly conducted trials haven’t been conducted on most traditional remedies, that doesn’t mean that they don’t work. In fact evidence seldom tells us what doesn’t work (few people like spending money on proving that something doesn’t work, it’s not financially rewarding). But it is the best that we have, so let’s get started!

At $1,500 for 40ml, this is a product that should perhaps come with a branded key-chain, belt, watch or something that would let people know how much you’ve spent on your skincare! It claims to be a “high-performance rejuvenating cream containing an innovative” ingredient to “boost skin energy production” and “repair genetic damage caused by UV rays & free radicals”. It also has Silk for “powerful anti-aging benefits” and to give a “firmer sleeker brighter more elastic & younger looking complexion”.

Ok, it’s (awfully) expensive, so how does it perform? First impressions – if you like a rich, creamy, smooth product- it’s very good. It spreads and absorbs well and has a lovely soft finish – not tacky, not dry – just right! The smell is a little floral, maybe just a touch potpourri, pleasant enough though…

Now to the ingredient list. The product has 44 ingredients. 7 of them are either described as or could be active ingredients, 20 are ingredients which influence touch and feel, or moisturise, 5 are used to hold the emulsion together, 10 are fragrance ingredients and 2 are preservatives.

The brand’s hero “active” ingredient is Cherry Blossom leaf extract (Prunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract). It is used in traditional Korean medicine (primarily for gut health) and as with many plant extracts, there are some interesting theoretical possibilities for use in skin care. But for this ingredient there are no peer reviewed published studies on its human anti-aging benefits.

The ingredient with the highest concentration (after water) is Rice extract (Oryza Sativa Bran Extract). It also has some potential gut health benefits but no evidence for use in skincare.

The product also contains hydrolyzed silk, a fruit used in traditional Chinese medicine (for gut problems), Artichoke leaf extract (possible benefits for liver conditions), and protein from the shell of Pearl Oysters. Again, there are no peer review published trials for use in skincare for any of these ingredients.

There are two other ingredients that have some evidence in anti-aging skincare. The first is Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) which has really good evidence for fine lines, pigmentation, improving skin barrier function and hydration when used at concentrations between 2% and 5%. In this product though there is less than 1% and there is no evidence for concentrations that low. And finally the product includes Acetyl Glucosamine, which has been trialed for many potential medical and health benefits. In skincare, it has been trialed particularly for depigmentation. In fact when we were originally formulating E.S.K products we looked at it as a potential active ingredient, but decided not to incorporate it in the range because while it is interesting the evidence for it in skincare is weak.

Summary of the active ingredients; There are a few that may have anti-aging effects, but there is NO evidence for any of the ingredients as used!

That said, when it comes to including ingredients which are potentially harmful, the product has 6 ingredients, which have an EWG rating of 5 or 6, and 3 that have an EWG rating of 7 or higher*. There is no definitive conclusion that one can draw from that, but we wouldn’t want to use those ingredients on our own skin and would certainly not include them in our products.

Our Verdict:

If you love the feel of this product and believe that it works for you… great! (although we suspect that touch and feel may be available at a lower price). As for the claims that the product makes, there is no evidence to back them up. So if you want to have confidence that what you are paying for will actually work, regardless of the price, this one is not for you.

*ratings of 5 and 6 are the top end of EWG’s “moderate risk” ratings of 7 and above are deemed “high risk”

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our product

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.