Talk about more BS than science! I can’t believe the amount of utter garbage on the internet about acne purging.
Not a scientific term, the word ‘purging’ is usually used to describe an acne-flare up that typically starts shortly after you start using a new skincare product.
If you get a purge, you get a temporary INCREASE in pimples.
According to specialist dermatologist, Dr Saxon Smith, we still don’t really know exactly why it happens, or even how to pick who will get a flare, “although it is more common in more severe acne,” he says.
The most popular theory for the causes of purging is an increase in inflammation and irritation which can cause existing non-inflammatory acne lesions such as microcomedones or comedones (your whiteheads and blackheads) to erupt into inflammatory acne lesions.
This can be because the ingredients used to treat ace can be pro-inflammatory.
The prescription form of Vitamin A. We know that Retinoic Acid is quite irritating and pro-inflammatory - at least initially.
Studies have shown up to 20 percent of people using prescription Vitamin A treatments develop new pimples during the first few weeks of treatment.
It looks like gentler Vitamin A formulations like retinal that don’t cause inflammation don’t tend to cause the same acne flare issue.
Interestingly you see fewer flares when Vitamin A is combined with antibiotics in a single preparation than with prescription Vitamin A on its own.
And antibiotics are often used to treat a really major acne purge. So maybe bacteria play a role.
Another possible explanation for why purging happens (which is quite popular, but for which there is no evidence) is that by increasing skin cell turnover, pimples that were forming come to the surface more quickly than they otherwise would have….
Or maybe it’s a combination of both theories!?
All that said, in our experience, a purge usually means that things are actually heading in the right direction. A tweak may be appropriate, but it’s no cause to freak out.
Biggest Myths around purging
- Despite the name, purging is NOT ridding your skin of trapped oils, “toxins” or impurities.
- Purging doesn’t mean you’re allergic to the skincare you’re using or that you should stop using this skincare altogether. It might just need some short-term modification.
Avoiding a purge
1. Start using your acne skincare and treatments slowly.
If you have sensitive skin or you’re worried about purging, try starting with your actives every second day for a week or two before using it every day.
2. Stick to the instructions on the package.
“Don’t slather it on,” insists dermatologist, Dr Saxon Smith. “Sometimes less is more.”
3. Add moisturising ingredients.
Use an effective moisturiser which can be applied before the Vitamin A in the case of prescription Vitamin A. Our Ultimate A and Ultimate A+ products combine Retinal with moisturisers and skin barrier repair agents like Niacinamide so they’re all in one.
Having a purge? Here’s what to do!
1. If the purge comes with redness, irritation and dry skin,
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Back off the actives.
That means cutting back on AHAs if you are using them. You can either replace them with Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) which are gentler than AHAs, or cut out the AHAs temporarily and reintroduce them when the irritation and dryness have settled.
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Decrease the strength of the Vitamin A.
So, if you are using Retinal at 0.1% (and cutting the AHAs has not done the trick), drop that down to Retinal at 0.06% until your skin settles down.
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Make sure you use a gentle cleanser and a broad spectrum sunscreen.
Both soap and the sun’s UV rays can exacerbate inflammation and irritation in the skin.
2. If there are just more pimples but no redness, dryness or irritation, just push on.
Purging should only last 4-6 weeks at most and then settle down better than ever.
3. For severe acne flares, you might need to see a dermatologist.
Dr Smith uses a combination of antibiotics and steroids, depending on the severity and the background skin issues for best effect!
Ultimate A
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.
Key features:
- 0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
- Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
- Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use
Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A+
Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.
This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.
Featuring:
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Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
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Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
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Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
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Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity
Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.