The ESK blog
Does Improving The Skin Barrier Function Improve Acne?
20 July 2021
Dr Ginni Mansberg
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The answer is yes. The skin barrier helps prevent Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) keeping moisture in your skin. So many people think that oily skin can’t be dry skin- but it is indeed. In fact, TEWL is partly to blame for the acne itself. In fact some studies suggest that the worse the TEWL, the more severe the acne. So ironically, treating TEWL can help improve acne.
Unfortunately, many acne treatments containing benzoyl peroxide and some forms of vitamin A like tretinoin, tazarotene and isotretinoin actually increase TEWL and yet play a huge role in treating acne. So if you are using them, restoring skin barrier function becomes even more important.
SO HOW DO YOU IMPROVE SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION IN ACNE?
1. Moisturise;
Studies of emollient and moisturising skincare products for acne show they improve skin irritation, redness and skin dryness. And most experts recommend non comedogenic moisturizers as part of your anti-acne regime.
But moisturizing isn’t enough. You will want actives in your skincare.
- Vitamin A. Vitamin A helps regulate skin turnover (reducing pore blockages) and reduces inflammation and any post inflammatory pigmentation. Retinal is, according to the evidence, the most effective and is the least irritating form of Vitamin A. ESK’s Ultimate A and Ultimate A+ night-time moisturisers are our hero products for treating acne effectively.
Ultimate A
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.
Key features:
- 0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
- Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
- Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use
Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A+
Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.
This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.
Featuring:
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Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
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Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
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Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
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Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity
Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.
- Niacinamide AKA Vitamin B3. This skincare active effectively not only reduces inflammation but helps combat overproduction of sebum (or oil) in the skin. ESK’s B Calm has 5% Niacinamide in a soothing but moisturizing cream, ideal for acne-prone skin.
B Calm
B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.
Featuring:
- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier
- Helps manage excess oil production
- Supports a clearer-looking skin
2. Avoid things that can make skin barrier function worse!
- Avoid soap which irritates skin and impairs skin barrier function. Cleansing is really important to remove excess sebum but go for a soap free cleanser like ESK’s Calming Cleanse or Hydroxy Cleanser to gently remove dirt and excess keratin.
Calming Cleanse
Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea.
This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier.
Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine.
Featuring;
- A coconut sugar base with soothing botanical
- A thorough yet gentle cleanse
- Suitable for daily use and even as a make-up remover
A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.
- Coconut based with soothing botanicals
- Leaves skin clear & hydrated
- May be used as a make-up remover
Hydroxy Cleanser
Our Hydroxy Cleanser is a soap-free, pH-balanced cleanser that provides gentle yet effective cleansing for your skin. Lightly foaming, it removes dirt, excess oils, and impurities without drying or irritating, making it perfect for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Designed with a neutral to acidic pH, it’s ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with acne, aging skin and pigmentation. This cleanser helps preserve hydration, supports the skin’s microbiome, and normalises skin pH, creating the perfect base for your skincare routine. Free from harsh soaps, astringents, and irritants, Hydroxy Cleanser leaves skin feeling fresh, balanced, and ready for any treatment.
Featuring
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Gentle, soap free syndets to leave your skin feeling clean and soft
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A pH of 4.5-5 to maintain the skin barrier
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Perfect for daily use for normal/oily skin
- Avoid UV damage. UVB and UVA rays both can cause inflammation and reduced skin barrier function. So opt for a broad spectrum non-comedogenic sunscreen with low irritation risk. Zinc oxide based sunscreens are ideal and tick all the boxes. You can find this in ESK’s Zinc Shade which gives you a matt finish and can be used under make up.
Zinc Shade
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.
We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.
Key features:
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Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
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Smooth application with minimal white cast
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Broad-spectrum UV protection
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Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage
Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
SO THERE YOU HAVE IT:
Maintaining the best skin barrier function you possibly can will actually help with your acne. Avoid soap, protect yourself from the sun and use a good comedogenic moisturiser.
References
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3579484/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5608132/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29663701
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7763094
http://www.oapublishinglondon.com/article/1014
http://www.oapublishinglondon.com/images/article/pdf/1400670482.pdf