The ESK blog
How Do You Reduce Pigmentation Caused By Sun Damage?
22 July 2021
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Why does pigmentation happen?
Melanin, your skin’s brown pigment protects your skin from UV damage. It is made by the specialised pigment-producing cells called melanocytes and is then transferred to the surrounding skin cells.
As we get older, this process can go pear shaped. Blame the sun. Studies have shown that without UV rays, the number of melanocytes (pigment producing cells) actually decreases by 10-20% per decade. Ditto smoking and pollution which both contribute to wrinkling have no effect on pigmentation. On the other hand, skin exposed to UV radiation causes inflammation to the skin (even at low levels) which stimulates the melanocytes to increase in number and clump together. Plus these sun-exposed melanocytes seem to overproduce melanin. Mottled hyperpigmentation, ephelides (freckles), solar lentigines (sun spots/ age spots) and pigmented seborrheic keratoses (AKA senile warts!!) are the main pigmentation problems you get as you get older.
How can I get rid of them?
A word of warning. Getting rid of pigmentation is never quick and most dermatologists agree that the best results come from using multiple depigmenting agents together. But left untreated, pigmentation caused by the sun will most likely persist indefinitely and do not go away on their own. ESK’s Pigmentation Kit, uses ingredients with the strongest evidence for managing pigmentation.:
- Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Right now, the most effective depigmentation agents available are tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is an essential enzyme for the formation of melanin by the melanocytes. The most potent tyrosinase inhibitor available is 4-n-butyl-resorcinol. This is the key ingredient in ESK’s Enlighten.
Enlighten
Enlighten is specifically designed to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. This lightweight cream helps to gently create a more even skin tone and hydrate and improve the barrier function of the skin.
While rarely used, 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nB) has some of the best evidence in this arena. Enlighten combines 4nB and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to create a rare combination of gentle yet effective ingredients. Enlighten helps tackle a mottled or uneven skin tone and is suitable for long term daily use
Featuring:
- Formulated to help skin look brighter and more even
- Gentle, nourishing ingredients suitable for daily use
- Supports the appearance of an even skin texture and tone
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): It inhibits the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells (in ESK’s Enlighten, Ultimate A and Ultimate A+). ***
- Vitamin A: Really good evidence exists for Vitamin A for pigmentation. It tends to increase cell turnover, and indirectly inhibit tyrosinase. Our Ultimate A and Ultimate A+ is formulated with the most effective and least irritating form of Vitamin A, Retinal. ***
Ultimate A
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.
Key features:
- 0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
- Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
- Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use
Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A+
Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.
This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.
Featuring:
-
Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
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Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
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Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
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Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity
Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.
- Vitamin C: Ascorbic acid seems to inhibit melanin production as well as preventing inflammation in the skin which limits the inflammatory pathway in overproduction of pigment. Use ESK’s Reverse C Serum (or C Serum Lite for oily skin) to have this powerful antioxidant help with your pigmentation.
- Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol): Anti-inflammatory properties as well as indirectly inhibiting tyrosinase (also in Reverse C Serum in addition to Vitamin C). ***
C Serum Lite
C Serum Lite offers the same evidence-backed benefits of Vitamin C in a lighter, non-greasy formula. Packaged in an airless, opaque bottle to maintain stability for maximum effect, this anti-oxidant serum is perfect for use every morning. Designed for a lightly hydrated, brighter and smoother looking skin.
Key Benefits
- Helps create a more even skin tone
- Supports smoother-looking skin and reduces the visible signs of skin aging
- Evidence-based ingredients for hydration and firmness
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): They are helpful in treating pigmentation by increasing cell turnover and studies show they inhibit tyrosinase. This is the key ingredient in our Smooth Serum, getting rid of pigmentation through increasing skin cell turnover. ***
Smooth Serum
Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.
Key features:
- Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture
- Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin
- Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture
Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.
- Hydroquinone: Best evidence sits around 3-4%. Downsides – tends to be slow and can cause hypersensitivity. Ochronosis (an uncommon side effect) turns skin a bluey-grey colour. Banned in many jurisdictions around the world due to safety concerns.
- Ablative therapies (e.g. chemical peels, liquid nitrogen- AKA cryotherapy, laser) Long term data is a bit thin but evidence seems to suggest pigmentation tend to come back.
Don’t forget that it is NEVER TOO LATE to start to prevent more pigmentation from happening. A day cream offering broad-spectrum protection from UVA and UVB rays should be an essential part of everyday skin care.
Shop ESK Pigmentation Collection
References
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15773537
https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/fullarticle/479104
https://jcs.biologists.org/content/121/24/3995
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2769151/ ***
https://www.aafp.org/afp/2009/0115/p109.html