The ESK blog
I’m in menopause- do I need a menopause specific skincare range?
19 August 2024
Dr Ginni Mansberg
I’m in menopause- do I need a menopause specific skincare range?
I don’t know about you but I am being inundated with menopause specific skincare ranges with the letter ‘M’ somewhere in the brand name. They claim to specifically target menopausal skin. It got me wondering; Do they have any validity? If these products are for menopausal skin what happens when you use them for a premenopausal woman in her 30s or 40s? What about a man? Would his face fall off? I set about to find out.
What happens to your skin after menopause?
To understand this, we need to understand what oestrogen does for the skin;
- Maintains your skin barrier.
- Oestrogen helps maintain a good level of ceramides in the skin. These chemicals are important building blocks of the skin barrier, helping with skin cell renewal, good immune function and structural integrity.
- It also helps in maintaining good levels of hyaluronic acid (HA) in the skin, helping with skin hydration and its structure too.
- Boosts your collagen
- Oestrogen helps in the building of your skin’s scaffolding ingredients like collagen and elastin.
- Oestrogen switches off enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases in the skin that breakdown both collagen and elastin.
- Oestrogen helps the growth of tiny blood vessels supplying the bottom layers of the skin that deliver nutrients to the more superficial layers of the skin.
- Helps with making moisturising sebum
- Oestrogen helps your oil glands make just enough sebum to keep the skin supple and less dry.
So, as oestrogen levels drop, you might notice some changes, including:
Dryness and Sensitivity: With less natural oil production, your skin can become drier and more sensitive. Plus as oestrogen declines, the skin barrier becomes less effective, allowing precious water to escape from the skin.
This dryness, plus higher levels of inflammation, can contribute to more sensitivity. This is reported by up to 70% of women in one study.
Collagen Loss: The decrease in oestrogen also impacts collagen production, leading to a 30% loss of collagen from the skin in the first 5 years after menopause and a further 2.1% drop per year after menopause. This results in more noticeable fine lines and wrinkles.
Best Ways to Combat These Changes
To keep your skin looking its best, you’ll want to focus on hydration, repairing the skin barrier, and boosting collagen production.
Boosting Hydration and Repairing the Skin Barrier
Key Ingredients:
Niacinamide: This form of vitamin B3 is a superstar for your skin. It helps improve the skin barrier function, reduce inflammation, and enhance hydration. Plus, it has anti-aging properties!
Ceramides: These lipids help form the skin’s barrier and retain moisture, crucial for keeping your skin hydrated and protected from environmental damage.
B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.
B Calm
Featuring:
- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier
- Helps manage excess oil production
- Supports a clearer-looking skin
Panthenol: Also known as provitamin B5, panthenol is great for moisturizing and soothing the skin, reducing irritation, and improving the skin barrier.
Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture. Key Features:
Repair +
Hyaluronic Acid: This molecule can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it a hydration powerhouse. It repairs the skin barrier, plumps the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Our Hydraboost Hyaluronic Acid Serum is designed to provide deep, lasting hydration with a blend of high, medium, and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids (HA). High molecular weight HA sits on the skin’s surface, creating a protective hydration layer that feels smooth and instantly refreshing. Meanwhile, low and medium molecular weight HA molecules sink deeper, boosting hydration within the skin barrier. Studies suggest that low molecular weight HA can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Lightweight and versatile, Hydraboost is perfect for daily use as the first step in your routine for plump, hydrated skin.
Hydraboost HA Serum
Featuring
- Enhanced daily skin hydration
- Plumper, healthier feeling skin
LET ME BE CLEAR- these ingredients will work regardless of your hormonal stage or even your gender. If your skin needs a hydration boost or some skin barrier repair, feel free to use them regardless of any ‘M’ on the packaging.
Combating Collagen Loss and Building Collagen
So we can all agree we want to boost collagen after menopause. Let’s look at the best evidence based ingredients to achieve that goal:
Key Ingredients:
L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): A potent antioxidant that promotes collagen synthesis or production, protects against environmental damage, and brightens the skin.
C Forte Morning Serum is packed with 16% L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C, combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid for maximum results. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is an anti-oxidant helping neutralise free radicals (associated with exposure to the sun). The result? A brighter, firmer, plumper looking skin with fewer fine lines apparent and a more even skin tone. Formulated at the ideal pH (2.5-3.5) and housed in airless, opaque packaging, C Forte ensures stability and effectiveness, delivering radiant skin with every use.
C Forte
Featuring;
- Evidence based ingredients and formulations for superior efficacy.
- Potent skin brightening ingredients
- A plumper, more hydrated and even toned skin.
Note: C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.
Retinaldehyde (Vitamin A derivative): A gentle yet effective form of vitamin A that increases cell turnover and stimulates collagen production, reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture.
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin. Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A
Key features:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These exfoliants remove dead skin cells, promote cell renewal, and stimulate collagen production.
Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone. Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.
Smooth Serum
Key features:
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): Providing gentle exfoliation and moisturizing benefits, PHAs are suitable for sensitive, post-menopausal skin but act like their cousins, the AHA’s.
Introducing our breakthrough skincare solution, the Gentle Glow PHA Serum, designed specifically for those with irritable, red or dry skin! - Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and the apparent size of pores. - Helps tackle blemishes and is appropriate for irritable and red skin.
Gentle Glow PHA Serum
Harnessing the power of Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs), which gently exfoliate and smooth the skin's surface, act as antioxidants and hydrate the skin. Unlike most exfoliation agents, PHAs are very gentle and are not only tolerated on irritable skin, but may also reduce potential irritation from other products in your skincare regimen!
Embrace the journey to a luminous, glowing complexion with the Gentle Glow PHA Serum.
- Smooths, hydrates and plumps the skin.
But all of these ingredients can be used by anyone looking to boost collagen, not just menopausal women. Having an ‘M’ or the word menopause on the pack won’t make these products any better for your skin!
The Importance of Sun Protection
Regardless of age or hormonal status, sun protection is crucial for maintaining healthy skin. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect against UVA and UVB rays, prevent further collagen breakdown, and reduce the risk of skin cancer.
Dermatologists recommend mineral or inorganic sunscreens that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, for anyone with sensitive skin. That’s because chemical sunscreens tend to be more irritating. If your menopausal skin is irritated and inflamed, opt for a mineral sunscreen.
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup. We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays. Key features: Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use Smooth application with minimal white cast Broad-spectrum UV protection Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
Zinc Shade
What are selective Estrogen Receptor Modulators (SERMs) and should I use them for my menopausal skin?
SERMs are compounds that selectively stimulate or inhibit oestrogen receptors in various tissues. While they are primarily used for conditions like osteoporosis and breast cancer, there’s ongoing research into their topical application for skin health, an that;s because we have oestrogen receptors pretty much all over our bodies, including our skin.
Topical Application: Some very small industry funded (and therefore least robust as far as scientists are concerned) studies suggest that topical SERMs could benefit skin by mimicking oestrogen’s positive effects without systemic side effects. However, more independent and robust research is needed to confirm their efficacy and safety for skin health.
Beyond Traditional Ingredients: While SERMs hold promise, evidence-based skincare ingredients like niacinamide, L-ascorbic acid, and retinaldehyde remain the gold standard for addressing post-menopausal skin concerns.
Conclusion
You don't need products with a "M" tick on them for your menopausal skin. You can target dry, sensitive skin, and collagen loss with good skincare products that contain key ingredients like niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, L-ascorbic acid, retinaldehyde, AHAs, and PHAs. In the future there may be menopause-specific skincare with ingredients like SERMS but current evidence supports sticking with proven, effective ingredient.
So, keep using those great skincare products, protect your skin from the sun, and embrace the changes with confidence!
