The ESK blog
Is there enough protection in makeup with SPF?
10 February 2023
Dr Anne Thomson
In a word - no.
Well, let me clarify this. Probably not.
Let me explain. And it all starts with what the sun’s rays do to your skin.
The sun’s rays are also called UV radiation, which comes in many forms including Far UV, UVC, UVB and UVA. It’s UVB and UVA that are medically important.
Let’s start with the sun’s UVB (for burning) rays. About 90% of cases of skin cancer is linked to exposure to the sun’s UVB rays.
UVA (for Aging) rays cause the almost all skin ageing and pigmentation (as well as contributing to skin cancer.)
For a start, UVA rays generate a lot of unstable particles called reactive oxygen species that do cell damage and directly cause skin damage.
UVA rays also turbo charge the activity of nasty enzymes that sit in the skin called matrix metalloproteinase which degrade both elastin and collagen.
Most of the effects of UVA radiation only appear after years of exposure.
Now let’s talk SPF
The SPF of a product refers to the multiple of time it would take you to burn with the product on compared to no product at all.
For example, if it normally would take ten minutes for your skin to start burning, then properly applying SPF 15 would mean it would take 15 times longer or 150 minutes, to start burning.
Applying an SPF 30 sunscreen would take your skin 30 times longer, or 300 minutes to burn. While SPF 50, 50 times longer or 500 minutes.
Regardless of the SPF, your sunscreen still needs to be re-applied every two hours (or after swimming, exercising and towel drying) and used in combination with other sun protection measures like staying in the shade and wearing a hat, sun-protective clothing, and sunglasses to avoid burning if you’re in the sun.
The problem with SPF
While the lab tests that determine a product’s SPF is pretty good at determining the degree of protection from UVB radiation, it doesn’t tell you anything about the level of protection against UVA.
If you want protection against both UVA and UVB rays, you need a ‘broad spectrum’ product.
The second problem is the amount you need to get that SPF 15 is the amount you use.
The SPF is calculated based on 5mls (that’s a full teaspoon) of product being applied to your face.
Most of us don’t do anything like that with a makeup product.
The bottom line
Go for a day cream that offers you broad spectrum protection against the sun’s UVA and UVB rays.
So much the better if it’s matt and light enough to sit nicely under your makeup. Then use whichever one you want!!
Shop ESK's SPF Zinc Shade: Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup. We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays. Key features: Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use Smooth application with minimal white cast Broad-spectrum UV protection Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
Zinc Shade