The ESK blog

“Maskne” Cutting Through The BS To The Evidence

20 July 2021

‘Maskne’ definition:
[pronunciation: mask-knee]
Acne breakouts along the jaw, chin and cheeks as a result of frequent wear of a protective mask. Also known as one of the more popular (and irritating) skin concerns we’ve all faced this year. (The definition hasn’t quite made it to the Oxford dictionary yet – but you get the gist)

When we look back on 2020, and the things that make it a contender for the “Worst Year Of The 21st Century” award, “Maskne” won’t be anywhere near the top of that list. But it is one of the annoying things this year has thrown at us. The good news? There is something we can do about it!

SO WHAT DO WE KNOW ABOUT MASKNE?

There are plenty of experts who will tell you why we get maskne. And the reasons we have seen include “trapping dirt and bacteria”, “imbedded detergent in the mask” and “trapped makeup”. But being Evidence Skincare, we thought – let’s look at the evidence…

WHAT TENDS TO HAPPEN TO OUR SKIN WHEN WE WEAR MASKS?

When it comes to proper scientific studies, some of our first real insights came in 2006 when the SARS virus increased the need for wearing of masks like the N95 mask (which significantly impacted airflow), compared to surgical masks (commonly used in hospitals which easily allow expelled air to escape). And it found that 60% of people who regularly wear (restrictive) masks developed acne, 50% reported itchiness and 36% got rashes. In addition, mask wearing made wearers almost 3 times more likely to get a headache.

WHAT’S HAPPENING UNDERNEATH THE MASK?

The question of why we get maskne is one that we are only starting to piece together. According to a 2020 Chinese study we know that wearing masks increases skin pH, oil production and transepidermal water loss (water loss from skin to the environment). In addition, an increase in skin sensitivity and irritation was noted. The rate of increase was higher for masks that were closer fitting and which reduced airflow. Not unexpectedly it also found that temperature and humidity inside masks was higher.

…And that leads to….

According to a recent study, there is a strong relationship between Eczema and environmental humidity. And there is also a link between increasing humidity and increased risk of acne. So humidity inside your mask is a big part of the problem. The risk of acne is compounded by increased oil production and raised pH which impairs the skin barrier function.

Despite your skin’s oil production going into overdrive (plus the environment under the mask being humid) due to a compromised barrier function and resulting water loss from your skin, there is an increased risk of it getting dry.

Going back to the itchiness – a Polish study identified that the risk of developing an itch when wearing a mask was much more likely for mask wearers who had acne, or dermatitis (both conditions of compromised skin barrier) to develop and itch.

SO HOW BEST TO TREAT IT?

First thing – there is no evidence about how best to manage the specific skin conditions resulting directly from wearing a mask. The best we have is techniques for managing oily yet dry, sensitive, irritated, acne and Eczema prone skin in a humid environment…..So here are our suggestions based on those conditions:

1) Get to know your pH and try and use products with a pH of less than 6. Just another reason to use a soap free cleanser (soaps have a pH of between 8 and 10).

2) Use a gentle cleanser morning and night (Calming Cleanse).

Calming Cleanse

Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea.

This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier.

Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine.

Featuring;

A coconut sugar base with soothing botanical
A thorough yet gentle cleanse
Suitable for daily use and even as a make-up remover

A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.

Coconut based with soothing botanicals
Leaves skin clear & hydrated
May be used as a make-up remover

3) A light Vitamin B3 based moisturiser (B Calm) will help improve the skin’s barrier function and reduce excess oil production.

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

4) A gentle chemical exfoliator (Smooth Serum) should help improve the skin dryness and bring the skin pH down. But if things are at the stage where your skin is red and irritated, you may need to skip this (most chemical exfoliation ingredients can be a little unforgiving on damaged skin).

Smooth Serum

Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.

Key features:

Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture
Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin
Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture

Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.

5) Use a Vitamin A based cream at night – preferably one that has ingredients with evidence for managing acne (Ultimate A+). That will reduce excess oil production and tackle pesky spots if you have them. And even if you don’t, you will still be using the best evidence based anti-ageing ingredient available.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

6) Salicylic Acid may be useful as a spot treatment for the pesky breakouts (Hydroxy Overnight Mask).

Hydroxy Overnight Mask

Our Hydroxy Overnight Mask is your go-to for clearer, glowing skin! With 5% salicylic acid and 10% urea, it’s a powerful yet gentle way to take on blemishes and keep skin hydrated. In oiler skin, Salicylic acid gently exfoliates for a smooth finish, while urea deeply moisturises. Use it as a spot treatment, or apply it once a week for an all-over refresh. Just cleanse, apply, and let this overnight mask work its magic while you sleep—wake up to softer, clearer, and radiant skin ready to take on the day!

Featuring;

- Gentle exfoliators for a weekly skin refresh

- Convenient size means you can keep it on hand to tackle blemishes when and wherever they happen