The ESK blog

My teen is picking their pimples – is that ever ok?

19 August 2024

Dr Anne Thomson

This is a question we get asked A LOT! And the short answer is...picking? No. Popping? It depends. Most dermatologists recommend teens (or anyone with pimples for that matter) never pop a pimple themselves; they risk making things worse with infection or even permanent scarring. But we all know how far parents get when they ask their teen not to do something (wet towels on the floor anyone?). As with most things teen, we often need to compromise and focus on harm minimisation, so let’s take a look at the different types of pimples and some tips on how to work with your teen to safely and effectively bring things under control.

Superficial pimples

These are the most common, and many teens with acne will only ever get these types of pimples. They tend to clear up after a few days - although new ones may appear - and don’t scar (unless they pick them!):

Whiteheads, aka closed comedones – occur when the pore (follicle) becomes clogged with excess oil, bacteria (like C. acnes) or dead skin cells, blocking it off. They look like tiny bumps that are white or flesh coloured with no redness or soreness.
Blackheads, aka open comedones - are caused by the same thing but the pore remains open, so the debris oxidises, turning a dark colour. Also not red or sore.
Papules: as the excess oil, bacteria and debris push deeper into the skin, things start to get inflamed. Small red bumps appear that can feel hard (like sandpaper if there are a lot of them).
Pustules: these are basically papules that have filled up with pus, showing up as red bumps with a white or yellow-filled centre (distinguishable from whiteheads which are not red or inflamed).

Deep pimples

Nodules and cysts: Ok, now we’re talking severe acne that usually needs treatment by a dermatologist. These are large, often involving more than one follicle and sit deep in the skin, penetrating through the dermis and into the subcutaneous layer below. They can last for weeks and may lead to scarring. Nodules are usually hard, painful and red, and cysts (fluid-filled nodules) can be up to 5mm in diameter. Most teens with this sort of acne will also have some or all of the superficial-type pimples too.

So which ones can my teen pop?

In a perfect world there would be no pimple-picking, popping or wet towels on bathroom floors 🙃 In the real world where most of us live, here are some tips:

Start with proper skincare (see below) and prescription treatments if indicated, this should bring most teen acne under control.
Papules, pustules, nodules or cysts should REALLY not be touched by anyone other than a dermatologist. What you can try are spot treatments with a salicylic acid serum or microneedle patch early in the life of the pimple, or ice to help relieve pain and inflammation.
Reassure your teen that most superficial pimples will heal themselves in a few days if left alone. Proper skincare should reduce the formation of new ones but can take a while to kick in.
If they really MUST, blackhead removal with a proper comedone extractor can be tried. Wash hands thoroughly, cleanse the face and then apply gentle pressure around the blackhead (never squeeze between the fingernails). If it doesn’t come out first try, or starts to bleed, abandon ship!

What’s the best skincare for my teen’s pimples?

If your teen has nodules or cysts, they should see a doctor, starting with your GP.

Meanwhile, channel your teen’s motivation to pick or squeeze into a simple but effective skincare routine with evidence-based ingredients:

Cleanse with a mild, soap-free cleanser twice a day.
Calming Cleanse
Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea.

This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier.

Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine.

Featuring;

A coconut sugar base with soothing botanical

A thorough yet gentle cleanse

Suitable for daily use and even as a make-up remover

A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.

Coconut based with soothing botanicals

Leaves skin clear & hydrated

May be used as a make-up remover
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to exfoliate the skin by loosening the bonds between clumped skin cells
allowing them to be effectively but gently removed. It’s generally a good idea to introduce AHAs as step 2 (after a few weeks) in a new acne regimen because they can irritate skin with an impaired barrier (which acne skin usually has).
Smooth Serum

Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.

Key features:

Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture

Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin

Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture

Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.
Vitamin A (retinoids) are the number one topicals for treating acne. They increase skin cell turnover which prevents excessive build-up of dead skin cells, are comedolytic (pimple-busting) and anti-inflammatory. Retinal (AKA retinaldehyde) is the most effective and least irritating over-the-counter retinoid. Use at night.
Salicylic acid is a total winner when it comes to acne. It’s a gentle exfoliator, with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-comedogenic properties with proven acne-fighting capabilities. It’s also an effective spot treatment early in a pimple’s development.
Vitamin B3 AKA niacinamide is another acne winner with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, as well as reducing sebum (oil) production.
Sunscreen, every day! UV radiation triggers inflammation which can make acne worse. Yes, reminding teens to apply sunscreen can be relied on to produce epic eyerolls, but if they do nothing else, try and get them to do this! Look for a non-comedogenic, broad spectrum sunscreen – a zinc oxide based one is best, not only is it non-comedogenic but it can help reduce sebum production too. Win-win!

If nothing seems to be working after 6-8 weeks or you’ve got a persistent picker on your hands, it’s time to see your doctor for a chat about other treatment options or a referral to a dermatologist. Good luck!

Shop ESK Acne Collection

References:
https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/skin-care/popping
https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/scars

https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/diy/types-breakouts

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5749614/

https://www.morressier.com/o/event/595a63f3d462b80296c9f566/article/595a9c52d462b80296c9f85e

https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/diy/treat-deep-painful-pimple

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6273829/

https://medicinetoday.com.au/system/files/pdf/MT2020-12-035-SEE.pdf

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6715335/

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1610-0387.2012.07939.x

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/

https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(17)32603-8/abstract