The ESK blog
Retinal for Acne-Prone Skin: Can It Help Reduce Breakouts
22 April 2025
Dr Anne Thomson
Acne, ugh. Chances are you’ve been affected at some point in your life, with up to 95% of teenagers experiencing some form of acne. But it’s not just teens – 25% of women well into their 40s are battling pimples too (and 12% of men).
Vitamin A derivatives (known collectively as retinoids) have been a game-changer over the years for acne –in oral (tablet) form, prescription-strength creams and over-the-counter cosmeceutical skincare. Their pimple-busting properties have been well-studied, with dermatologists agreeing that “retinoids are the core of topical therapy for acne”.
The problem has been that many of the older topical retinoids have a high rate of side-effects – redness, dryness, burning and itching – meaning a lot of people can’t tolerate them. Luckily, there’s a new retinoid making waves in the Vitamin A skincare world – meet retinaldehyde, also known as retinal (not to be confused with retinOL!). Retinal is increasingly being shown in studies to be more effective with fewer side-effects than its older cousin retinol – even for those with sensitive skin.
If you’ve been struggling to manage breakouts (AND you’d like anti-aging benefits thrown in!), let’s check out why retinal could be the missing ingredient in your skincare line-up…
What causes acne?
This looks like a list, but it’s actually a vicious circle, with all these elements working together to cause breakouts L :
1. Overproduction of skin cells plus slower skin cell turnover clogs the pores.
2. Excess oil (sebum) production due to hormones (known as androgens) causing the excess skin cells to clump together, further blocking pores.
3. The excess oil and other factors leads to an overgrowth of “bad” bacteria such as C. acnes, a major driver of acne.
4. All of this promotes inflammation which makes all of the above worse!
Other contributing factors include:
Abnormal skin pH – skin pH that is too high, around 5.5, is pro-inflammatory and helps C. acnes to flourish. A common cause is using the wrong skincare!
Genetics – acne tends to run in families.
Stress – stress hormones (like corticotropin-releasing hormone) can really mess with the skin’s immune function as well as increase sebum production.
How retinaldehyde fights acne
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Reduces the build-up of excess skin cells that clog the pores and increases the growth of new cells, boosting turnover
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Regulates immune system overactivity and blocks inflammation.
Retinal, especially in combination with hydroxy acids, has even been shown to help with the longer-lasting effects of acne such as scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Want some anti-aging benefits thrown in?
Retinal is also a powerful anti-aging ingredient, combatting signs like fine lines and wrinkles by:
· Boosting collagen production and increasing skin thickness and elasticity
· Improving skin cell renewal and repairing oxidative stress
· Evening out pigmentation and skin tone
It’s a must in your anti-aging skincare tool kit!
Why retinal is the Vitamin A skincare hero for sensitive skin
All topical retinoids (to varying degrees) have been shown to combat acne and the signs of aging. But the side-effects like redness and irritation can be a major problem, especially for sensitive skin.
Retinaldehyde is much more efficient than the other retinoids (eg. retinol), at converting into the active ingredient retinoic acid, earning it the title of “most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid” with the least risk of side-effects; in other words, you need a lot less of it to achieve results. It’s been shown to actually support skin barrier function, meaning it can help calm sensitive skin.
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin. Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A
Key features:
How to add retinal cream or serum to your acne skincare
· If you have severe acne, please see your doctor as you may need prescription treatments.
· Add retinal night cream or serum into your routine with your other acne-busting ingredients like hydroxy acids, salicylic acid and niacinamide. And of course your soap-free cleanser!
Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea. This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier. Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine. Featuring; A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.
Calming Cleanse
· Always use it at night – retinal is broken down by sunlight
· Because of its gentle (but effective) action, you can use your retinal night cream or serum every night to start off with, no need to go slow. Unless you have super-sensitive skin, then you might want to start gradually every other or third night and build up from there.
· Don’t forget your daily sunscreen, everyday no matter the weather. Retinal can make your skin more sensitive to the sun and it will undo all the benefits! Choose a broad-spectrum, non-comedogenic sunscreen like zinc oxide.
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup. We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays. Key features: Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use Smooth application with minimal white cast Broad-spectrum UV protection Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
Zinc Shade
Here at ESK we’ve taken the guesswork out of retinal skincare for acne with a range of safe, effective, evidence-based and simple to use Acne Kits covering a range of ages and skin-types. If you’re ready to take your acne skincare to the next level, why not add in some retinal – you’ll be at the cutting edge of skincare science AND on the path to a clearer, refreshed complexion!
