The ESK blog

What To Do About Wrinkles: The Evidence Behind Antioxidants In Skincare

22 July 2021

Updated 14/07/26

Approximately 80% of your skin’s premature aging is related to sun exposure or UVA radiation. These UV rays (along with pollution) causes the production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) which are unstable oxygen-containing molecules. These molecules result in chain reactions within the skin which cause a reduction in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin and that causes fine lines and wrinkles.

WHEN IT COMES TO ANTIOXIDANTS, REMEMBER YOUR A, B, CS:

VITAMIN A

The best evidence for the management of sun-related aging is in using Vitamin A AKA retinoids. Of all the cosmeceutical forms of Vitamin A, Retinal (in ESK’s Ultimate A and Ultimate A Gold) is the most effective and least irritating. Retinal is much more effective than Retinol, which is much more commonly found in skincare than Retinal.

While there are many forms, they all ultimately work by converting to Retinoic acid which binds with receptors in the skin. This stimulates a number of processes, one of which results in the building of collagen in the skin. And this, in turn, results in a decrease in fine lines and wrinkles.

Ultimate A

Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.

Key features:

0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use

Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product.

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated.

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

VITAMIN B3

Also known as Vitamin B3, Niacinamide is a great all-rounder with benefits for aging, pigmented, inflamed, rosacea or acne prone skin.

Niacinamide acts as an antioxidant, and assists in repair of cell DNA. It improves skin barrier function, and decreases moisture loss so it’s a favourite for managing dry skin conditions, including eczema. When it comes to skin ageing, niacinamide increases skin elasticity, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, reduces blotchiness and general sallowness.

Which is why we include in ESK’s B Calm, B Quenched, Enlighten, and Repair+.

Repair +

Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture.

Key Features:

Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
Super effective but gentle enough for daily use

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

B Quenched

Meet B Quenched, a gentle hydrator designed for irritable skin. Powered by niacinamide and hemp seed oil, it helps support the appearance of a calm, hydrated skin barrier, while helping reduce visible redness. Free from scents, parabens, and sulphates, this pH-balanced formula locks in moisture and keeps irritants at bay. B Quenched leaves skin feeling soft, balanced, and refreshed, perfect for daily use.

Key Benefits

- Helps improve the appearance of hydration and softness

- Supports calm-looking, less inflamed skin

- Evidence-backed ingredients to maintain a resilient skin barrier

VITAMIN C

Vitamin C helps maintain the skin’s barrier, build collagen and also reduces wrinkles, fine lines, skin roughness and pigmentation. Not all forms of vitamin C in skincare are the same. There is only one pure form and several derivative forms. The best studied and best evidence is for L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C).

As our products are evidence-based, we have used L-Ascorbic Acid for the Vitamin C in our C Forte and C Serum Lite to ensure it has all the benefits of Vitamin C.

C Forte

C Forte Morning Serum is packed with 16% L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C, combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid for maximum results. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is an anti-oxidant helping neutralise free radicals (associated with exposure to the sun). The result? A brighter, firmer, plumper looking skin with fewer fine lines apparent and a more even skin tone. Formulated at the ideal pH (2.5-3.5) and housed in airless, opaque packaging, C Forte ensures stability and effectiveness, delivering radiant skin with every use.

Featuring;

- Evidence based ingredients and formulations for superior efficacy.

- Potent skin brightening ingredients

- A plumper, more hydrated and even toned skin.

Note: C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.

C Serum Lite

C Serum Lite offers the same evidence-backed benefits of Vitamin C in a lighter, non-greasy formula. Packaged in an airless, opaque bottle to maintain stability for maximum effect, this anti-oxidant serum is perfect for use every morning. Designed for a lightly hydrated, brighter and smoother looking skin.

Key Benefits

- Helps create a more even skin tone

- Supports smoother-looking skin and reduces the visible signs of skin aging

- Evidence-based ingredients for hydration and firmness

Creating an effective evidence based anti-aging range is why we started ESK. So, it shouldn’t be a surprise that the ingredients with the best evidence for managing wrinkles are found in ESK products.

References

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our skincare blog, including ingredients, routines, skin concerns, and expert advice.

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.