The ESK blog
What tweens really need in a skincare regime
14 March 2024
Dr Anne Thomson
Are you parenting a tween-age girl? Does she have a more complicated skincare routine than you do, involving approximately 17 steps? Maybe you’ve been presented with a birthday wishlist that includes a dizzying and pricey array of serums, oils and creams that makes you long for the days when that list was peppered with Barbie campervans, fidget spinners and LOL Surprises (IYKYK).
Perhaps you’re just wondering why your nearest big brand cosmetics store is suddenly overcrowded with 10 year old girls?
I can answer yes to every single one of these questions. I am DEEP in the trenches of parenting a tween daughter through this latest craze. We have gone from the long birthday wishlist described above, through to a flaming red face covered in bumps (hers, not mine), prompting a paring right back to basics, the re-emergence of her naturally beautiful young skin and some valuable lessons learned by us both on the dangers of getting caught up in a social media-driven trend. And she doesn’t even have social media yet!
So what’s fuelling this craze?
Disclaimer: this is my personal opinion as a mother (not as a GP), but I think the origins of this latest craze in skincare are not a lot different to all the other tween crazes which have come before - think Furbies, fidget spinners, light-up shoes or slap bands. Kids this age (around 9-12) just want to fit in. They’re trying on new personas, they want to do what all their friends are doing. Marketing departments and social media algorithms know this. So far, so normal.
The difference with this trend (I think) is that it has spread more widely and rapidly via kid-frequented social media platforms like TikTok and YouTube, and that it can cause physical harm.
What are the potential harms of using adult skincare on young skin?
Most active ingredients in skincare products today, like retinoids (vitamin A), hydroxy acids and vitamin C, are being used for their anti-ageing effects. We now have good evidence that they do this very effectively by reducing water loss from the skin, promoting collagen and elastin production and reducing inflammation (to name just a few). In adults.
But young skin, even up to around the mid 20s, has buckets of collagen and elastin and isn’t yet showing the signs of ageing, most of which are caused by cumulative UV damage from the sun over several years.
The effects of these powerful anti-aging products on young skin haven’t been studied, but multiple anecdotal reports from GPs and dermatologists describe facial redness, break-outs, dryness, flaking, burning and itching. Ouch!
There is also increasing evidence that some of the other chemicals found in many (but thankfully a decreasing number of) skincare products and cosmetics, such as parabens, fragrance and phthalates, are endocrine disruptors. These can have oestrogen-like effects in the body and have been implicated in the earlier onset of periods in girls, a known risk factor for breast cancer. Exposure is thought to be more significant if it’s in the years around puberty (hello tweens).
So what DO tweens need in a skincare routine?
If all this sounds like your tween, don’t despair! The good news is we can harness this newfound enthusiasm for self-care into some good habits that needn’t cost a fortune. Here are the 3 (not 17) things your tween needs:
A daily or twice daily cleanse with a gentle, soap-free cleanser that doesn’t leave the face feeling tight or dry.
2. Sunscreen
This is non-negotiable, 365 days of the year. Pivot your tween’s influencer-fuelled desire to protect her skin from ageing by using the most important product of all - sunscreen! Make sure it’s a broad spectrum one that blocks UVA and UVB rays but not her pores; preferably a mineral sunscreen such as zinc oxide, rather than chemical sunscreens which can cause irritation. Use it every morning as the last step.
It’s worth mentioning here that childhood exposure to the sun increases the risk of skin cancer including melanoma; daily use of sunscreen from an early age reduces this risk. Win-win.
3. Moisturiser
A light, gentle moisturiser is recommended by most dermatologists for tweens. Just make sure it doesn’t contain any of the anti-ageing ingredients mentioned above and is (ideally) fragrance-free. If she’s deadset on using an active, niacinamide (vitamin B3) is the pick: it helps to protect the skin barrier and manage natural oil production.
What about acne?
If your tween or teen is suffering from acne or frequent break-outs, it’s worth looking at a Retinal based night cream. It’s a form of Vitamin A that is really well tolerated and has good evidence for managing acne. But it doesn’t have the irritation that usually accompanies other forms of Vitamin A. And if that doesn’t work, check in with their doctor before starting any other actives. In the younger kids the break-outs may be the RESULT of all the skin products they’ve been using. Your GP or dermatologist will be able to help sort this out and suggest the best way forward.
Can’t wait to see what the next craze is…Good luck!