Pigment which is also known as melanin does more than provide a great all over tan. It prevents damage by the sun’s UV rays by absorbing and scattering UV light as well as scavenging free radicals, acting just like an antioxidant. So it’s a good thing to have. But when pigmentation is uneven, it can be distressing.

Tyrosinase kick starts the production of melanin pigment inside the melanocytes (cell in the skin that produces and contains the pigment called melanin).

More tyrosinase - MORE pigmentation.
Less tyrosinase= less pigmentation.
So, we often try to INHIBIT tyrosinase!

Melasma is excessive (hyper) pigmentation that typically looks like irregular pigmented patches on sun-exposed areas of skin, especially the face and neck. There are 2 types of melasma; Epidermal melasma (in the more superficial layers of the skin) tends to be light brown, and a dermatologist shining a Wood Lamp on it sees it light up. Dermal melasma (deeper in the skin) looks more grayish in colour and doesn’t light up under the Wood Lamp. It’s important to know which one you have because dermal melasma often doesn’t respond to topical treatments.

Solar (sometimes called actinic) lentigines happen in sun exposed skin, cropping up later in life, which is why they are sometimes called senile lentigines or age spots. You can get them on any sun exposed skin such as your forearms, face, neck, or the backs of the hands.

Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation appears as irregular, darkly pigmented skin where there has been some previous injury or inflammation, for example acne or nasty eczema, psoriasis, burns or even after laser, light therapy, or cryotherapy (liquid nitrogen).

What is Enlighten?

What is C Forte?

What are Complexion Correction: Microneedle Patches?

From studies, we know that 4NB is the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase available. Studies have shown great depigmentation effects at 0.1% twice daily and 0.3% once daily. How effective? 84% of people get significant reduction in their pigmentation, even when used alone. It is very well tolerated and can be used long term.

L-Ascorbic acid, the evidence based form of Vitamin C has tyrosinase inhibiting properties but is also an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient. Used on its own in a study of 16 people with pigmentation, 5% L-ascorbic acid was compared with 4% hydroquinone cream.

Hydroquinone was superior (93% good and excellent results vs 62.5% for vitamin C). But side-effects were much greater in the hydroquinone group (68.5% vs 6.2% for vitamin C). We wouldn't rely on Vitamin C on its own, but we would definitely recommend adding it into the cosmeceutical mix.

Vitamin A combats pigmentation through a number of mechanisms including combatting oxidative stress, reducing melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte, but most importantly by increasing keratinocyte turnover effectively flushing excess pigment out of the skin.