Tackling pigmentation requires persistence and targeting multiple pigmentation “pathways” at once. That’s because pigmentation is complex.
It all starts in your melanocytes, which are your melanin AKA pigment producing cells and they are located at the base of the epidermis.
The impetus to produce pigment comes from exposure to the sun’s UVA (for Aging) and B (for burning) rays. Key to the manufacture process is the enzyme, tyrosinase.
From the melanocyte, melanosomes - tiny bags full of melanin are dispatched to the superficial skin cells, or keratinocytes to help protect your skin from the sun’s UV rays.
The melanin then remains in the keratinocytes until these skin cells are shed, which “flushes” the pigment out of the skin.
Tackling pigmentation is not as simple as just targeting overproduction of melanin.
There’s a major focus on tyrosinase inhibitors that switch off the enzyme that helps MAKE pigmentation.
But giving the job to one product is hard, and most guidelines suggest a combination approach.
After all, once made, pigment needs to be transferred to the keratinocyte- a process we can target directly.
And once melanin is in the keratinocyte, it will be there for the duration of the cell’s life, but we can enhance melanin flushing from skin cells.
With that in mind, here are my top 5 ingredients;
1. 4-n-Butylresorcinol
Most people with pigmentation will opt for a tyrosinase inhibitor because tyrosinase is critical for the formation of melanin.
From studies, we know that 4NB is the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase available. Studies have shown fantastic depigmentation effects at 0.1% twice daily and 0.3% once daily in just 8 weeks.
How effective? 84% of people get significant reduction in their pigmentation, even when used alone. It is very well tolerated and can be used long term.
2. Niacinamide
Niacinamide reduces pigmentation in 2 ways. In studies, niacinamide can reduce the transfer of melanin from melanocyte to keratinocyte by between 35 and 68% and has been shown to reduce pigmentation in just 4 weeks of use.
PLUS, if you look at areas of pigmentation under the microscope, it is drier, with more trans epidermal water loss and impaired skin barrier function than unpigmented skin.
Ensuring your skin barrier function is optimised will help. Niacinamide does this, increasing the skin’s water content.
Shop ESK Niacinamide & 4-n-Butylresorcinol:
Enlighten is specifically designed to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. This lightweight cream helps to gently create a more even skin tone and hydrate and improve the barrier function of the skin. While rarely used, 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nB) has some of the best evidence in this arena. Enlighten combines 4nB and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to create a rare combination of gentle yet effective ingredients. Enlighten helps tackle a mottled or uneven skin tone and is suitable for long term daily use
Enlighten
Featuring:
3. Retinal (the ultimate form of Vitamin A)
Vitamin A combats pigmentation through a number of mechanisms including combatting oxidative stress, reducing melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte but most importantly by increased keratinocyte turnover effectively flushing excess pigment out of the skin. It isn’t used alone but is an important additive to a tyrosinase inhibitor for best results.
I say choose retinal (retinaldehyde) because it is the most effective and best tolerated of vitamin A for your skin, being 20 times more powerful than retinol.
Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin. Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.
Ultimate A
Key features:
4. Sun protection
There’s no point treating pigmentation if you go in the sun without adequate protection from the sun’s UV rays.
Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen (which protects you from both UVA and UVB rays) from sun up to sun down.
Wear a hat and try to avoid the sun altogether in the middle of the day.
Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup. We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays. Key features: Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use Smooth application with minimal white cast Broad-spectrum UV protection Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.
Zinc Shade
5. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
L-Ascorbic acid, the evidence-based form of Vitamin C, has tyrosinase inhibiting properties but is also an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient. Used on its own in a study of 16 people with pigmentation, 5% L-ascorbic acid was compared with 4% hydroquinone cream.
Hydroquinone was superior (93% good and excellent results vs 62.5% for vitamin C). But side-effects were much greater in the hydroquinone group (68.5% vs 6.2% for vitamin C).
I wouldn’t rely on vitamin c on its own, but I would definitely add it into the cosmeceutical mix.
C Forte Morning Serum is packed with 16% L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C, combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid for maximum results. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is an anti-oxidant helping neutralise free radicals (associated with exposure to the sun). The result? A brighter, firmer, plumper looking skin with fewer fine lines apparent and a more even skin tone. Formulated at the ideal pH (2.5-3.5) and housed in airless, opaque packaging, C Forte ensures stability and effectiveness, delivering radiant skin with every use.
C Forte
Featuring;
- Evidence based ingredients and formulations for superior efficacy.
- Potent skin brightening ingredients
- A plumper, more hydrated and even toned skin.
Note: C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.
ESK's Pigmentation Kit:
The Pigmentation Kit combines evidence-based ingredients designed to support a refreshed skin and a more even skin tone while restoring hydration. Key features: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy or while trying to conceive. We've swapped Ultimate A with the new Ultimate A Gold. If you prefer Ultimate A, you can build your own kit here.
Pigmentation Kit
C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.