The ESK blog

Causes Of Skin Aging And What You Can Do About It

15 April 2024

Dr Ginni Mansberg

Updated 14/07/2026

Our skin is a pretty incredible organ. It’s the largest in our bodies and its primary jobs are to protect our bodies from impacts, changes in pressure and temperature and to keep out “bad” things like harmful chemicals, radiation, micro-organisms and other foreign bodies. And while it is performing its job as our very own armour and raincoat, it also lets waste out which helps with regulating the temperature of the body. Not only that, but it’s pretty great at sensing things like heat, cold, touch and pain And all the while renewing itself!!

But it does age. Its ability to renew itself reduces. That results in the skin’s barrier function becoming less effective, a loss in strength and resilience of the skin and reduced ability to repair itself. The skin also often starts to show uneven pigmentation and reduced elasticity and bulk.

There are two factors that result in skin ageing. The first is simply the ticking of the clock or chronological ageing. The second, often called premature ageing, is caused by external factors like air pollution, smoking and diet but is primarily caused by cumulative exposure to the sun. While many of the impacts of chronological and premature skin ageing are similar, chronologically aged skin tends to look dry, thin and finely wrinkled. On the other hand, prematurely (sun) aged skin tends to look leathery, with bigger (coarse) wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.

We have some pretty good evidence about things we can do to reduce and reverse some of the signs of premature skin ageing, but when it comes to chronological ageing the evidence is less clear and so most of what we focus on is premature ageing.

What you CAN do:

Lifestyle and sun protection

I hate to say this, but skin health is just one more thing that is adversely affected by lifestyle. To be the bearer of bad news, this means it will be improved by cutting out the sugary snacks, fried food, alcohol and cigarettes. However, the single most important thing we can do to limit and reverse skin ageing, is limit our sun exposure. And it is never too early or late to start! Sun avoidance, shade, and protective clothing are the best forms of protection. Though, perhaps the easiest thing we can do is use broad-spectrum sunscreen every day. The concern about skin cancer has led us to a focus on UVB protection and the measure which describes UVB protection in skin care – its SPF. But the primary concern for premature ageing (and increasingly we are aware of an increased risk of skin cancer) is exposure to the sun’s UVA rays. On a skin care product, the words “broad-spectrum” indicates that the product protects from UVA as well as UVB (which the “SPF” describes). Just a side note, we see an intense focus online for higher SPF products. Without taking away from the importance of reducing our UVA and UVB exposure, insufficient UV exposure can increase the risk of Vitamin D deficiency (according to a 2016 study, 32% of Americans were deficient in Vitamin D) and the risk of a number of cancers, Alzheimer disease, dementia, macular degeneration and cardiovascular disease. So this is a case of where more sun protection is better… to a point.

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
Smooth application with minimal white cast
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

Skincare

There are three main groups of ingredients that have evidence for anti-ageing. The first are:

1) Cell regulators.
Vitamin A is by far the best studied and the most effective ingredient not just in this group, but across all skin ageing ingredients. A common problem with the most frequently used forms of Vitamin A (retinoic acid and Retinol) is their irritation and in the case of Retinol, lower effectiveness and evidence. Of all the forms of Vitamin A Retinaldehyde is both highly effective and non-irritating (it is even suitable for sensitive skin) and has good evidence. In fact, the lack of products on the market that use Retinal (and even then are often not formulated using the best evidence), is one of the main reasons that we started ESK, and it is included in Ultimate A Gold and Ultimate A+ – our two night creams. The other ingredients in this group are Peptides, but the evidence for Peptides remains weak.

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product.

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated.

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

2) Anti-oxidants.
The two with the best evidence are Vitamins B3 and C. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) is stable, well-tolerated and is helpful for many skin types and conditions and is found in ESK’s B Calm, Repair+, B Quenched and Enlighten.

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

Repair +

Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture.

Key Features:

Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
Super effective but gentle enough for daily use

B Quenched

Meet B Quenched, a gentle hydrator designed for irritable skin. Powered by niacinamide and hemp seed oil, it helps support the appearance of a calm, hydrated skin barrier, while helping reduce visible redness. Free from scents, parabens, and sulphates, this pH-balanced formula locks in moisture and keeps irritants at bay. B Quenched leaves skin feeling soft, balanced, and refreshed, perfect for daily use.

Key Benefits

- Helps improve the appearance of hydration and softness

- Supports calm-looking, less inflamed skin

- Evidence-backed ingredients to maintain a resilient skin barrier

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) which is great for helping with the classical signs of sun related skin ageing, is unstable, occasionally results in sensitivity and anecdotally may exacerbate acne. As a result, most skincare brands bond Ascorbic Acid with another ingredient (eg. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate). But while we have good evidence for L-Ascorbic Acid, there is just no evidence that these other bonded ingredients (usually called Vitamin C by the manufacturer) actually work. And this was the second reason we started ESK, to provide an evidence based, stable and effective Vitamin C which is in our C Forte Serum and C Serum Lite products.

C Forte

C Forte Morning Serum is packed with 16% L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C, combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid for maximum results. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is an anti-oxidant helping neutralise free radicals (associated with exposure to the sun). The result? A brighter, firmer, plumper looking skin with fewer fine lines apparent and a more even skin tone. Formulated at the ideal pH (2.5-3.5) and housed in airless, opaque packaging, C Forte ensures stability and effectiveness, delivering radiant skin with every use.

Featuring;

- Evidence based ingredients and formulations for superior efficacy.

- Potent skin brightening ingredients

- A plumper, more hydrated and even toned skin.

Note: C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.

C Serum Lite

C Serum Lite offers the same evidence-backed benefits of Vitamin C in a lighter, non-greasy formula. Packaged in an airless, opaque bottle to maintain stability for maximum effect, this anti-oxidant serum is perfect for use every morning. Designed for a lightly hydrated, brighter and smoother looking skin.

Key Benefits

- Helps create a more even skin tone

- Supports smoother-looking skin and reduces the visible signs of skin aging

- Evidence-based ingredients for hydration and firmness

3) Chemical peeling/exfoliation.
The ingredients with the best evidence in this group are Glycolic and Lactic acid like those included in ESK’s Smooth Serum and Gentle Glow PHA Serum.

Smooth Serum

Smooth Serum is a night treatment formulated with 3% Glycolic acid, 1% Lactic acid, and 1% Gluconolactone. This gentle AHA blend supports the appearance of skin texture and surface renewal, helping maintain the look of even skin tone.

Key features:

Combination of alpha hydroxy acids to support skin texture
Supports the appearance of smoother, more even skin
Can be used alongside products containing Retinal to maintain overall skin texture

Caution: Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.

Gentle Glow PHA Serum

Introducing our breakthrough skincare solution, the Gentle Glow PHA Serum, designed specifically for those with irritable, red or dry skin!

Harnessing the power of Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs), which gently exfoliate and smooth the skin's surface, act as antioxidants and hydrate the skin. Unlike most exfoliation agents, PHAs are very gentle and are not only tolerated on irritable skin, but may also reduce potential irritation from other products in your skincare regimen!

Embrace the journey to a luminous, glowing complexion with the Gentle Glow PHA Serum.

- Smooths, hydrates and plumps the skin.

- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and the apparent size of pores.

- Helps tackle blemishes and is appropriate for irritable and red skin.

After sun protection and skincare, there are a number of clinical or invasive procedures. These include (deeper) Chemical peels, Laser (many different types), Fillers (including Hyaluronic acid). And while Botulinim Toxin (Botox) injections don’t change the underlying nature of the skin or impact the ageing process, they can temporarily reduce wrinkles and frown lines. And finally, there is Hormone Replacement Therapy, the oestrogen version of which is included in our recent blog on Menopause and also Ginni’s book on Menopause (The M Word).

References

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our product

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.