Why do my eyes look so old?

The ESK blog

Why do my eyes look so old?

25 November 2022

Dr Ginni Mansberg

Updated 14/07/2026

It’s true. The first signs of ageing are often seen around the eyes.

Your eyes cop a lot of ageing.

  1. Eyelid skin is the thinnest in the body (<1mm thick) and has no subcutaneous fat layer.

    This makes them more susceptible to irritation and allergy and also to showing not only that irritation, but also changes due to the sun and ageing.

  2. The skin around the eye is an area with fewer oil glands and less collagen in comparison to your other skin.

    That makes the skin around your eyes prone to fine lines. dehydration, and dullness. It also gives you
    lax, loose skin around the eyes

  3. Your muscles around the eyes are constantly contracting and relaxing.

    Blame the orbicularis oculi muscle, the muscle that surrounds the eyes
    in both the upper and lower eyelids which contracts whenever you do various facial expressions and movements.

    All this movement
    causes folding or wrinkling of the overlying skin.

  4. As you get older, we often see what we call a pseudoherniation or slipping down of the orbital fat pad, the fat pad that usually sits around your eye.

    This is often genetic.

    That can come packaged up with what we call a
    tear trough deformity. This is a concave depression close to the nose that is noticeable and becomes more so as you age. 

  5. We often miss this area when applying sunscreen so it can be especially prone to UV damage.

  6. We often miss the area around the eyes when applying our anti-ageing skin care.

No wonder people are beating a path to their plastic surgeons’ door for help! 

How can we help our ageing eyes look a little brighter?


Dull, dehydrated, aged eye skin can make your eyes look older. So….

Up your skincare game

All the things that work against ageing skin elsewhere on your face works on the skin around your eyes.

We’re talking Retinal, L-Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide and perhaps Hyaluronic acid and Ceramides for which there is some emerging evidence.

So, when applying your skin care, don’t forget the skin around your eyes. 

Shop Retinal

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product. 

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated. 

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

Shop L-Ascorbic Acid 

C Forte

C Forte

C Forte Morning Serum is packed with 16% L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C, combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid for maximum results. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is an anti-oxidant helping neutralise free radicals (associated with exposure to the sun). The result? A brighter, firmer, plumper looking skin with fewer fine lines apparent and a more even skin tone. Formulated at the ideal pH (2.5-3.5) and housed in airless, opaque packaging, C Forte ensures stability and effectiveness, delivering radiant skin with every use.

Featuring;

- Evidence based ingredients and formulations for superior efficacy.

- Potent skin brightening ingredients 

- A plumper, more hydrated and even toned skin.

Note: C Forte can exacerbate acne and may be too strong for irritable skin.

Shop Niacinamide, Ceramides & Hyaluronic Acid 

Repair +

Repair +

Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture.

Key Features:

  • Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
  • Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
  • Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
  • Super effective but gentle enough for daily use 

That includes your sunscreen.

The skin around your eyes can be super sensitive but make sure you get sunscreen to that skin and go for wrap around sunglasses that will also reduce your risk of cataracts, macular degeneration and even skin cancers that just love to pop up on the eyelids. 

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

  • Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use

  • Smooth application with minimal white cast

  • Broad-spectrum UV protection

  • Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

Try an eye cream with caffeine in it.

Caffeine not only helps constrict blood vessels meaning less fluid leaking into the under-eye area, but it also stimulates the blood circulation around the eye which makes the skin around the eye look fresh and rejuvenated.

Plus, studies show that caffeine is a powerful antioxidant, helping protect cells against UV radiation and slowing down the effects of photoaging on the skin. 

Eye Serum

Eye Serum

Our Eye Cream is specially designed to care for the delicate skin around your eyes, where aging signs first appear. The eyelid area has the thinnest skin on the body, with fewer oil glands and less collagen, making it prone to fine lines, dryness, and dullness. Add in constant muscle movement and UV exposure, and you’ve got a recipe for wrinkles and sagging. Our eye cream is packed with gentle peptides, caffeine, and moisturisers to hydrate, firm, and brighten this delicate area. Say goodbye to tired-looking eyes and hello to a refreshed, youthful look that lets your eyes shine!

Featuring;

  • Formulation to smooth  and brighten skin in the eye area
  • Caffeine for eye bag reduction
  • Gentle ingredients for the delicate skin around the eyes

A rich blend of organic, peptide and antioxidant ingredients lighten, tighten and brighten the skin under and around the eyes. 

  • Brighten the eye area
  • Tighten skin 

How to combat crows’ feet (AKA “lateral canthal rhytids”) 

A 2012 Korean study of 525 people found that crow’s feet are super common. They affect 81% of people, and 100% over 60. 

All wrinkles can be divided into dynamic wrinkles (wrinkles that emerge with animation) and static wrinkles (wrinkles present at rest).

The gold standard of treatment these days is Botulinum toxin injections, which work by blocking the release of the neurotransmitter, acetylcholine where the nerves supply the muscles around the eyes.

The effect of botulinum treatment may take 1–2 weeks to fully kick in, and the effect lasts on average 3 to 4 months. Botulinum toxin is more effective against dynamic than static wrinkles. 

In clinic microneedling has proven to be somewhat effective but metal needles aren’t always that well tolerated! Especially close to the eyes. 

Recently, dissolving anti-aging microneedle patches have been successfully used to reduce fine lines and lateral canthal lines.

They combine the advantages of microneedling with super high tolerability and the ease of being able to do it at home. 

How to combat puffy eyes

Talk about a dearth of research! 

If your eyes suddenly puff up, think of a medical cause.

Doctors typically test you for thyroid problems, kidney disease or check in on medications that can cause fluid retention.

Even allergies can give you puffy eyes intermittently (this should clear up with an antihistamine.)

But assuming there’s no medical cause, for quick symptom relief, you can try a cool compress on your eyes.

Wet a clean washcloth with cool water. Place the damp washcloth around your eyes for a few minutes, applying very gentle pressure. Do this while sitting upright.

And then there’s that caffeine in the eye cream we talked about……

If it really gets you down, a cosmetic physician or plastic surgeon can help. There are surgical procedures, including a blepharoplasty (or eyelid lift) and filler into the tear trough deformity

How to combat dark circles 

This isn’t an ageing issue. In an Indian study published in 2014, it was found that the most common age to report dark circles was in the 16 to 25 year age group!

This study confirmed that women are affected by dark circles more than men.

Nor do you get dark circles from lack of sleep. A 2021 study of 100 people with dark circles monitored them before and after a bad night’s sleep.

The results?

While people who got fewer hours of sleep felt their eyes had darker circles, there was no difference with objective measurement.

Here’s what we do know; mostly the discolouration is pigmentation.

To a certain extent, it is genetic, but it can be made worse by rubbing or scratching the skin around the eyes and by the build-up of fluid due to allergies.

But all the same methods of combatting pigmentation still apply to the skin around your eyes.

We are talking tyrosinase inhibitors to reduce the production of pigment in the skin.

Don’t forget 4-n-butylresorcinol is available in your skincare and is at least as (if not more) effective at shutting down melanin production altogether than other tyrosinase inhibitors.

Enlighten

Enlighten

Enlighten is specifically designed to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. This lightweight cream helps to gently create a more even skin tone and hydrate and improve the barrier function of the skin.

While rarely used, 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nB) has some of the best evidence in this arena. Enlighten combines 4nB and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to create a rare combination of gentle yet effective ingredients. Enlighten helps tackle a mottled or uneven skin tone and is suitable for long term daily use

Featuring:

  • Formulated to help skin look brighter and more even

  • Gentle, nourishing ingredients suitable for daily use

  • Supports the appearance of an even skin texture and tone

But depigmentation is best when done using a combination of a number of different ingredients such as L-Ascorbic acid, Retinal and Niacinamide.

Enjoy bright eyes! 

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our product

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.