The ESK blog

Your Vitamin A Questions Answered

13 August 2023

Dr Anne Thomson

Updated 14/07/2026

When it comes to cosmeceutical skincare, no ingredient has more evidence to support its use than Vitamin A. This blockbuster ingredient has strong evidence for anti-ageing effects, working to promote collagen growth, increase skin elasticity, and even out pigmentation. It has also been shown to be highly effective for combatting acne, and even rosacea.

However, navigating the world of Vitamin A can be confusing, thanks to the availability of multiple forms – do you know your retinol from your retinal (AKA retinaldehyde)? What about retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid? Where do they all fit in, and which one is best?

Here, we answer your frequently asked questions about Vitamin A and delve into why, based purely on the evidence, our pick is unequivocally … *drumroll*… retinal!

What is Vitamin A?

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble nutrient used by our bodies for a number of essential functions, including vision, the immune system, cell growth and a bunch of organs such as the eyes, kidneys and heart.

Our bodies derive Vitamin A in two forms from our diet – as pre-formed Vitamin A from animal sources such as dairy, eggs, fish and meat, and as a precursor (provitamin) from plants containing beta-carotene - think orange and yellow fruits and veg - which we convert to Vitamin A in our guts, and then store in our liver.

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product.

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated.

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

What does Vitamin A do for the skin?

Eating enough Vitamin A is obviously important, but to really combat the signs of ageing, or manage acne or rosacea-prone skin, topical application of Vitamin A derivatives (known collectively as retinoids) is where it’s at.

When applied to the skin, Vitamin A reduces wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation, increases skin elasticity, reduces pore size, and stimulates skin cell growth and collagen production. It also enhances the turnover of skin cells, to help with skin cell rejuvenation and renewal. That’s quite a list of achievements for a little molecule!

BUT (always a but!), the side-effects of most forms of Vitamin A (sometimes known as “retinol burn”), like burning, redness and irritation, can be significant. Let’s take a closer look…

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

What are the different forms of Vitamin A, and which one is best?

Ok, time for a mini-crash course on the different types of Vitamin A used in skin care.

The first thing to understand is that your skin can only derive benefits from the biologically active form of Vitamin A, retinoic acid. All the other retinoids need to convert to retinoic acid in the skin to work.

Pure retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin or isotretinoin, directly binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin which perform all the beneficial functions listed above. But it often causes significant side-effects like the aforementioned burning, redness and stinging. It’s only available with a doctor’s prescription, so you won’t find it in over-the-counter skincare products, and many people can’t tolerate it.

The other retinoids, available as “cosmeceuticals” in over-the-counter products, need to be converted into retinoic acid in the skin to have any effect. How closely related they are to retinoic acid, with the least number of conversion steps required, is what determines not only effectiveness, but also how common (or not) the side effects are.

Here’s the Vitamin A chain:

Retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol which is converted to retinal (AKA retinaldehyde) which is converted to retinoic acid.

Each step is performed by enzymes in the skin, which can vary from person to person and limit the efficacy of the product.

Are you still with me? 😅

Retinol (note, retinOL, with an O) is two steps removed from retinoic acid in this chain, needing to be converted to retinal first. Whilst it does have efficacy against ageing, it can be variable for a number of reasons including that it is very unstable and is easily broken down to an inactive form when exposed to light and air. There’s also a higher chance of side effects due to the higher concentration. Ditto retinyl palmitate which is three steps removed.

Retinal, AKA retinaldehyde, is the direct precursor to retinoic acid; it only needs to go through one step in the conversion process. Because it is closest to retinoic acid, you need 20 times less retinal than retinol - yes 20 times less! – to have the same effect. And guess what that means – almost no side-effects. In fact, retinal has been shown to improve fine lines and wrinkles to the same extent as 0.05% tretinoin (prescription-only) without the irritation. Win-win!

OK, I’m convinced, retinal wins the retinal vs retinol match! So who should use it?

Just about all skin types have been shown to benefit from retinal, from o lder skin, sun damaged skin and pigmentation issues, through to acne and rosacea prone skin. Even sensitive skin can usually tolerate retinal.

The only people who shouldn’t use Vitamin A on their skin (in any form) are pregnant or breast-feeding women.

Should I use Vitamin A every day?

Most of the studies are based on using it once a day, so that’s what we recommend. Nightly application is also recommended as UV can render retinoids ineffective and even cause photosensitivity. A daily SPF, preferably a physical sunscreen like zinc oxide is a must when you’re using Vitamin A.

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
Smooth application with minimal white cast
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

Shop ESK Retinal Collection

References:

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our product

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.