The ESK blog

Seasonal changes and your skin

02 June 2023

Dr Anne Thomson

Ahh, there’s a definite change in the air…no matter which season you’re heading into, there is a noticeable shift in temperature as we start to contemplate making some changes in our routines.

You might be swapping out your winter and summer clothes or hauling out your ski gear or beach towels!

Should we apply the same principles to our skincare routines? What happens to our skin with the change of seasons? What ingredients work best to combat the different conditions? And are there some tips we should follow for all seasons?

What happens to your skin in winter?

Most people notice their skin feels drier in winter. It can become irritated and red, even itchy and flaky.

If you already have sensitive skin, or conditions like eczema or rosacea then winter can trigger flare-ups. Even people with oily or acne-prone skin can experience more breakouts.

Why does this happen?

The cold, dry air in winter can really mess with our skin’s barrier. A lot of it is to do with the drop in humidity, compounded by us spending more time indoors with the heaters on.

Without getting too technical (it’s complicated!), a healthy skin barrier keeps the good stuff (moisture, natural oils) IN and the bad stuff (irritants, infections, toxins ) OUT.

This obviously keeps skin not just looking good but functioning well too. It’s not hard to see that anything which disrupts this barrier is going to lead to a loss of moisture and an increase in irritation.

What happens to your skin in summer?

Ah, heat & humidity.

They always sound good in the depths of winter but the balmy conditions can play havoc with your skin too by, you guessed it, disrupting the skin’s barrier.

Hot weather, humidity, more intense UV radiation from the sun and even air-conditioning can trigger flare-ups for people with rosacea or dry, sensitive skin; oily or acne-prone skin isn’t spared either with increased oil (sebum) production and altered skin bacteria causing breakouts.

Pigmentation problems can become more noticeable in summer too.

So which is worse? Summer or winter?

Studies have shown mixed results, with different skin types struggling more in different seasons.

But on average (and surprisingly), it seems that the average person with sensitive skin strug gles more in summ er.

But what about when the seasons change?

There are lots of studies looking at differences in the skin between summer and winter, but very few look at what happens during the transition from summer to winter and vice versa ie. autumn and spring.

And that makes sense because our weather extremes are in summer and winter.

But from our own data, there is something that is going on during the changes of the seasons which can be a bigger issue for our skin.

According to our data, rates of skin sensitivity (and reactions to products, while low) are higher during Autumn and even more so in Spring!

And this has been confirmed in a 2020 and 2014 article which found that erythema (skin redness and irritation) was highest in Spring.

As for why that is the case, pollen and allergies is a possible explanation, so too is the rapid speed of temperature and atmospheric pressure but we really don’t know!

What ingredients are best for each season?

1. Soap-free cleanser

Steer clear of soap!

Soap disrupts the tight junctions between the cells of the skin’s outer layer allowing extra water loss and can disrupt the pH of the skin, removing the protective acid layer.

In winter this can obviously make skin drier and more irritable.

Even in summer it can strip your skin of its natural oils leading to an increase in production which can also mess up the normal microorganisms on the skin – hello flare ups for acne-prone skin and rosacea!

Stick to a gentle, soap-free cleanser all year round.

Hydroxy Cleanser

Our Hydroxy Cleanser is a soap-free, pH-balanced cleanser that provides gentle yet effective cleansing for your skin. Lightly foaming, it removes dirt, excess oils, and impurities without drying or irritating, making it perfect for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Designed with a neutral to acidic pH, it’s ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with acne, aging skin and pigmentation. This cleanser helps preserve hydration, supports the skin’s microbiome, and normalises skin pH, creating the perfect base for your skincare routine. Free from harsh soaps, astringents, and irritants, Hydroxy Cleanser leaves skin feeling fresh, balanced, and ready for any treatment.

Featuring

Gentle, soap free syndets to leave your skin feeling clean and soft
A pH of 4.5-5 to maintain the skin barrier
Perfect for daily use for normal/oily skin

2. Sunscreen

A no brainer in summer but just as necessary DAILY in winter.

UV radiation (UVR) from the sun causes inflammation and dryness (not to mention photoaging and increased skin cancer risk) and is present all year round, even on cloudy days.

You want one you can use every day that will protect from both types of harmful UVR - UVA (aging) and UVB (burning); for that you want a broad-spectrum physical sunscreen that blocks both these without blocking your pores.

Zinc oxide fits the bill, not only is it non-comedogenic, it sits on your skin rather than being absorbed by it, making it safe to use AND non-irritating.

BUT Vitamin C can sometimes be irritating. So if your skin is playing up a little, cutting out Vitamin C till it has settled may help.

Zinc Shade

Zinc Shade is a lightweight matte day cream and primer. Its non-greasy, matte finish allows for smooth application and works well under makeup.

We spent countless iterations perfecting this lightweight, non-greasy formula to avoid the typical white cast and thick feel of zinc products. The results? A matte finish that works beautifully under makeup. With well tolerated matte finish, it's also well suited to irritable and blemish and bump prone skin. With SPF 15 it also provides broad-spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Key features:

Lightweight, matte formula suitable for daily use
Smooth application with minimal white cast
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Tested SPF 15 with enhanced UVA coverage

Usage: Apply evenly to all exposed areas of skin before sun exposure. Reapply as needed throughout the day.

3. Use moisturising ingredients to maintain or restore the skin barrier

Most people’s skin feels better in winter with a “heavier” moisturiser and in summer with a “lighter” one, but these days you really want more bang for your buck with special ingredients (backed by science!) that help repair and maintain your skin barrier.

Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides and Niacinamide AKA Vitamin B3.

Our newly enhanced Repair Plus contains all these ingredients with an extra shot of panthenol (vitamin B5) and squalene in a rich base to help calm, restore and hydrate. Great for dry winter skin.

Repair +

Repair + is a moisturiser formulated to support skin hydration and barrier function. Its combination of niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides is designed to help maintain skin moisture, strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce the appearance of redness, and support overall skin texture.

Key Features:

Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
Super effective but gentle enough for daily use

4. Vitamins for your skin

Vitamin B3

(AKA niacinamide or nicotinamide) fights dry skin by reducing moisture loss and upping the skin’s own production of natural oils.

Consider adding this into your winter routine for an extra moisture boost. Try our B Calm for sensitive or acne-prone skin, B Quenched for dry skin, Enlighten for pigmented skin, or Repair + for sensitive skin.

B Calm

B Calm is formulated to support irritable and blemish prone skin while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides strengthen resilience, Salicylic Acid exfoliates and calms the skin, and Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce the appearance of blemished skin.

Featuring:

- Ingredients to support an improved skin barrier

- Helps manage excess oil production

- Supports a clearer-looking skin

B Quenched

Meet B Quenched, a gentle hydrator designed for irritable skin. Powered by niacinamide and hemp seed oil, it helps support the appearance of a calm, hydrated skin barrier, while helping reduce visible redness. Free from scents, parabens, and sulphates, this pH-balanced formula locks in moisture and keeps irritants at bay. B Quenched leaves skin feeling soft, balanced, and refreshed, perfect for daily use.

Key Benefits

- Helps improve the appearance of hydration and softness

- Supports calm-looking, less inflamed skin

- Evidence-backed ingredients to maintain a resilient skin barrier

Enlighten

Enlighten is specifically designed to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. This lightweight cream helps to gently create a more even skin tone and hydrate and improve the barrier function of the skin.

While rarely used, 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nB) has some of the best evidence in this arena. Enlighten combines 4nB and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to create a rare combination of gentle yet effective ingredients. Enlighten helps tackle a mottled or uneven skin tone and is suitable for long term daily use

Featuring:

Formulated to help skin look brighter and more even
Gentle, nourishing ingredients suitable for daily use
Supports the appearance of an even skin texture and tone

Repair +

Key Features:

Ingredients to support hydration and skin barrier function
Formulations to help reduce the appearance of redness and visible skin irritation
Scent-free, paraben-free, and sulphate-free
Super effective but gentle enough for daily use

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid) is a powerful antioxidant which can help reduce inflammation, restore hydration and brighten skin by reducing pigmentation and fine wrinkles.

It needs to be correctly formulated and packaged to ensure it doesn’t degrade before being applied.

Our C Serum Lite is a perfect light formulation for summer that can be layered under your moisturiser and sunscreen.

BUT Vitamin C can sometimes be irritating. So if your skin is playing up a little, cutting out Vitamin C till it has settled may help.

C Serum Lite

C Serum Lite offers the same evidence-backed benefits of Vitamin C in a lighter, non-greasy formula. Packaged in an airless, opaque bottle to maintain stability for maximum effect, this anti-oxidant serum is perfect for use every morning. Designed for a lightly hydrated, brighter and smoother looking skin.

Key Benefits

- Helps create a more even skin tone

- Supports smoother-looking skin and reduces the visible signs of skin aging

- Evidence-based ingredients for hydration and firmness

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is one of the anti-ageing hero skin ingredients of the modern age.

In some forms it can be irritating, which is why we chose retinal (short for retinaldehyde) for our Vitamin A products – it’s the most effective AND the least irritating, win-win!

Our Ultimate A (for normal or drier skin) and Ultimate A+ (for oily or acne-prone skin) are ideal for use at night all year round. (NB not for use if pregnant or breast-feeding).

Ultimate A

Ultimate A Night Cream contains 0.06% Retinal, the most gentle and effective form of Vitamin A, paired with Niacinamide to help maintain skin barrier function and support brighter, firmer and more even looking skin tone and texture. Well suited even for the most irritable skin.

Key features:

0.06% Retinal to support a brighter, smoother and firmer skin texture
Niacinamide to support skin barrier function and a more even looking skin tone
Gentle formulation suitable for nightly use

Usage: Apply at night after cleansing (and serum if being used) as part of your evening skincare routine.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

Ingredients to watch when seasonal changes play havoc with your skin

Alpha Hydroxy acids (Glycolic and Lactic acid)

They are excellent exfoliation ingredients, and naturally hydrate the skin.

But they can be irritating, especially if your skin barrier is not in great shape. Cutting back on AHA’s when your skin is unsettled can help your skin back in shape quicker.

Foaming cleansers

Your skin may normally love a foaming cleanser. But when your skin is unsettled, creamy cleansers, which are usually more gentle and hydrating than foaming cleansers, may help reduce stress on your skin barrier and get things on track quicker.

____________

The extremes of summer and winter and the changes in spring can present challenges for our skin, particularly if you are prone to dry, sensitive or oily skin with flare-ups such as acne or rosacea.

Keeping your skin’s barrier in tip-top shape is where you want to focus your energies as the seasons change, and sometimes a few simple tweaks to your routine is all it takes.

In the springtime, if you are one of those unlucky ones who experiences a skin flare, pare back your regime and take some comfort knowing that you are not alone and it should pass in a few weeks.

In the meantime, enjoy your summer or winter, wherever you are in the world!

References:

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/bjd.16150

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jdv.13301

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7763094/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14728698/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2835894/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5608132/

https://www.rosacea.org/patients/rosacea-triggers/rosacea-triggers-survey

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5947266/

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/phpp.12423

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26639794/