The ESK blog

Why is Retinal the bees knees?

16 November 2022

Updated 14/07/2026

These days most skintellectuals know that Vitamin A is hands down the ingredient with the most and strongest evidence for reducing the signs of skin aging.

Vitamin A reduces wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. It has been shown to increase skin elasticity, reduce pore size, stimulate skin cell growth and collagen production.

It also enhances the turnover of skin cells, to help with skin cell rejuvenation and renewal. In addition, Vitamin A is also effective in managing acne.

There are lots of forms of Vitamin A on the market.

Retinol must be oxidized to retinal AKA retinaldehyde. Retinal is oxidized (irreversibly) to retinoic acid.

Retinoic acid is the prescription form you get from a doctor.

It is the chemical that, when it hits the receptors inside the skin, turbo charges collagen and does all the other things we love about Vitamin A.

So it is SUPER effective BUT very irritating and lots of people can’t use it.

That’s why lots of companies started using retinol.

The problem is that according to a major review of studies from 2021, Retinol just isn’t very effective.

Why?

Well, excuse me science geeking you out here;

The conversion of retinol to retinaldehyde is consistently 30–60-fold slower than the conversion of retinaldehyde to retinoic acid.

And, less than 5% of the retinol added to cells ends up being converted into retinoic acid.

But luckily, studies have shown that when it comes to skin aging, Retinal is AS EFFECTIVE as Retinoic acid. Minus the irritation.

Because it acts as a Vitamin A reservoir in the skin, delivering a slow and steady dose of Retinoic acid to the receptors, it has all the benefits of prescription grade Retinoic acid, but it prevents oversaturation of the receptors and the resulting skin irritation and inflammation.

Independent of its stimulation of the Retinoic acid receptors, Retinal also has antimicrobial effects which are beneficial in acne and rosacea.

That is why we use it in ESK’s Ultimate A Gold and Ultimate A+

Ultimate A Gold

Ultimate A Gold: the most effective and gentle ingredients that evidence based cosmeceutical skincare has to offer, in one revolutionary formula.

The game-changing night cream developed in partnership with Selma Blair - combines our most potent hero ingredients to effectively and gently tackle the most common skin concerns – in one product.

Tackling the signs of aging skin including fine lines, skin elasticity, impaired barrier function, hydration, dullness and uneven skin tone. it is our most powerful product yet and yet it’s still ridiculously well tolerated.

Wake up to skin that's supple, smoother, and softer.

For the most irritable of skin, Ultimate A may be a better option, particularly when starting to use Retinal based products

*Ultimate A Gold (Retinal) may transfer onto white or light-coloured fabrics. For best results, we recommend using darker clothing or surfaces to avoid visible marks.

Ultimate A+

Building on the proven performance of Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ Night Cream is designed for those looking to refine texture and tone or support skin prone to congestion. With 0.1% Retinal (the next-generation form of Vitamin A), Niacinamide, and 2% Glycolic Acid, this formula delivers visible improvements while remaining gentle and well tolerated.

This unique combination supports smoother-looking skin, helps refine the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and promotes a more hydrated, balanced complexion.

Featuring:

Potent yet gentle formulation suitable for daily use
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and texture
Supports firmer, more supple-looking skin
Formulated with evidence-based ingredients known to enhance skin clarity

Note: Retinal is not suitable for use during pregnancy.

Shop ESK Retinal Collection

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about our skincare blog, including ingredients, routines, skin concerns, and expert advice.

Yes, the two concerns overlap significantly. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, helping shift pigmented cells out of the skin faster. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) helps neutralise the UV signal that triggers excess melanin production. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid as well as PHAs (Polyhydroxy acids) support surface renewal, improving uneven skin tone over time. Combining these actives with daily SPF gives you an approach that addresses both aging and discolouration simultaneously, which is why ESK's anti-aging products are also core to its pigmentation routines.

Mature and menopausal skin faces a dual challenge: accelerated collagen loss (driven by falling oestrogen) and a disrupted skin barrier which causes increased sensitivity and dryness. A strong routine includes a gentle cleanser, Vitamin C serum in the morning, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to support barrier function, retinal skincare product at night, and an SPF daily. ESK has dedicated collections for both Menopausal and Perimenopausal skin with products matched to these specific needs.

Yes, but choosing the right products for your skin is important. Sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients, it just means you may need to start with gentler formulations. For vitamin A, retinal (retinaldehyde) is generally better tolerated than retinol while still delivering excellent anti-ageing benefits. Many people can use retinal more comfortably, although those with very sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually. For vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for improving photodamaged skin, but because it's formulated at a low pH, it can sometimes cause temporary stinging or irritation in sensitive skin. If your skin is more reactive, it might be better to avoid Vitamin C serums. The key to success is matching your skincare to your skin's current tolerance, not using the strongest products from day one. The ESK Skin Quiz can help identify the best anti-ageing routine for your skin type, sensitivity and experience with active ingredients.

The three ingredient groups with the strongest evidence for anti-aging are cell regulators, antioxidants and chemical exfoliants - in that order. In the cell regulator category, Vitamin A is by far the most studied and most effective ingredient across all anti-aging actives. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is the form ESK uses because it is both highly effective (10-20x's more effective than Retinol) and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. In the antioxidant category, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) have the strongest evidence. For exfoliation, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have the best clinical support. And the emerging evidence for Polyhydroxy acids make them a great option for sensitive skin. Daily broad-spectrum SPF sits above all of these: UV exposure is the primary driver of premature skin aging, and no active ingredient can outwork unprotected sun exposure.

Skin ageing is driven by two main processes: chronological ageing (the natural ageing process) and premature ageing, also known as photoageing.

Chronological ageing happens naturally over time as the skin produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and its ability to repair and renew itself slows. This leads to thinner, drier skin, fine lines and a gradual loss of firmness.

Premature ageing is caused by external factors, particularly cumulative UV exposure, which is responsible for up to 80% of visible facial ageing. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to deeper wrinkles, rough texture, uneven pigmentation and loss of elasticity. Smoking, air pollution, poor sleep and diet can also contribute to premature skin ageing.

While we can't stop chronological ageing, we can slow and even improve many of the visible signs of UV skin damage. Most evidence-based skincare ingredients, including sunscreen, vitamin A (retinal), vitamin C and niacinamide, work by helping to prevent or repair the effects of photoageing.

The only form of Vitamin C with strong clinical evidence for anti-aging is L-Ascorbic Acid. Most brands use bonded derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and still call it Vitamin C on the label. But there is no evidence those alternatives actually work. The challenge with L-Ascorbic Acid is stability: it degrades when exposed to light and air. ESK formulates its Vitamin C products in airless, opaque packaging specifically to maintain stability and ensure the ingredient is still active when it reaches your skin.

Both are forms of Vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol requires a two-step conversion process in the skin before it becomes Retinoic Acid, the active form the skin actually uses. Retinal is one step closer, meaning it converts more efficiently and delivers faster results at lower concentrations. Retinal is also significantly better tolerated than Retinol, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. It is more expensive to produce, which is why most brands stick with Retinol, but the evidence for Retinal is strong and the irritation profile is in a different league. It is the only form of Vitamin A ESK uses.